Balmain

Yes I'm finally finishing up the review, and you my dearest will of course have first dibs on the photos :)

DH came home with a brand new camera and boy is it good; Canon EOS 7D... And I got a remote control so now I can take pictures in all kinds of places.

As you can see I had to add a design detail... the sleeves were waaay to long after hanging on the form  so long (remember I cut them on bias). I shortened them in two different places and added some fabric DH brought home from Moods.

If I only had a waist like this...

And here I am... This first one is how I like to wear it, open and casual- except I normally wear clogs not sky-high platforms...

The black jeans I wore to the Tonys. And the platforms. Boy was it a long show...

My hair looked way better at the Tonys :)

Notice the remote, and also the black bag- it's a shoe bag,
this was before I actually put them on...

Now I don't feel so guilty :) The pictures is the hard part I and I dread taking them. Next will be the review. I'm posting some more pictures on Flickr, mostly construction photos here's the link

Flickr

Balmain update

An update on the Balmain just to PROVE I am actually working on it!

The collar is beaded and in the process of being hand stitched to the neckline. I have to hand sew it on because the rhinestone chain goes all the way to the seam line and I'm not taking any chances of the machine needle hitting one of those. I'm using a thick Gütermann polyester thread, which also was used for all the beading. Those silver gray pearls next to the rhinestone chain are 3 or 4 mm, can't remember, and were beaded on two-three at a time. Most of what you see came from FireMountainGem.

Below is a picture to show how I attached part of the sleeve to the shoulder before the beadwork. You can also see some of the hair canvas that is used to support the beading.

The bottom of the sleeve: Everything is beaded except the last loop, which will be done after the underarm seam is closed. If you look closely you can see the beaded rope I found in NYC (and cat hair! those cutie pies OWN my grainboard, it's their Pride Rock). I chose to use the rope instead of the larger pearls because it's lightweight; the sleeve is cut on bias so extra weight truly drags it down.

  
Well that was the update. Thank you so much for the nice comments on the much-delayed pictures of the Dior coat. I'm thankful I actually wrote the review last year, but now I'm fearful of how I'll write a review of the Balmain... Hopefully the pictures I've taken will refresh my memory. Not that it matters much, I mean, who's gonna want to make this, it's been more than a year since the original came out! Yes- one year almost to the day since DH showed me a pic in the LA Times...
I'm such a slowpoke!

NYC

I'm leaving bright and early tomorrow and will be in NYC for a while. Staying in Times Square and DH (who's already there) is loving it, being back where he spent some of his younger days :) I'm taking the Balmain and beads with me, hopefully to finish. I already did the lining and facing buttonholes, so think I can manage the rest without a machine. The unfinished jacket will be going in the carry-on, I'm taking no chances :))

I hope to be able to post and catch up with everyone while there, but I can't be sure. And now I have to pack...

Giveaway & Progress

It's only fitting that this giveaway will be the amazing MAGNIFIERS from FireMountainGems :))

First of all, several of you posted your wish for this- thank you to all who posted, and keep them coming, post your wishes for giveaway here.

Secondly, my pair- which I'm still wearing as I type- is now my best friend more than ever, guiding my tired eyes through the beading. I have also placed several additional pairs in my basket at FireMountain, so rest assured, you will have plenty of opportunity to win :))

This pair's drawing will be Friday, February 5th, so leave a comment on this post if you'd like to be included. All countries welcome :))

*And Nancy W asked a while back if you can wear your glasses with the magnifier:

Yes, absolutely!

Below are pictures of the progress. First up, the paper pattern is pinned on the shoulder and thread traced.

The shoulders traced. I changed the angle of the sides later, tracing another line, more like the chalk line you see in the picture.

Here's the outline beading, and also the two curved silver beads and some stones. It will be filled entirely with pearls and beads, but not until all the outlining is done.

I hope to get this done in time for New York, but that may well be wishful thinking... If I don't, then I'll bring it with me and sew the rest of the jacket by hand!! I'm running out of the octagon rhinestones I use for the outline, so I have to pick up another batch at Berger Beads today or tomorrow. Wish me luck :))

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And also, something I had been meaning to answer about my Etro-esque coat: Yes, I think someone could possibly wear it with black, or golden tones, but that someone is not me. It's due to the colors in the coat: Every single one of them is wrong on me, so black draws the attention to that fact in a bad way, and golden tones are another big no-no for my coloring, so that's like putting bad on bad... White is the only way I can pull it off, and believe me, I wish it wasn't so.

Heart Balmain Again!

A joyous moment was had by me just minutes ago: I tried the jacket on with the sleeves basted in and I LOVE it! If I can get all the beading done and still be as excited as I am now- with all the thread and loose ends etc, I'm going to wear the heck out of this jacket. And I'll wear it grunge style, with a long tee underneath, tight pants and clogs :))

The sleeves are cut on bias, and boy are they flattering. And comfortable. And slender :)) You can see in the picture I'm chalking the beading lines to see the right placement. The sleeves have yet to be machine stitched, which will be done only to the point of the beading. Then I will undo the underarm seam and the rest of the armhole, stabilize the beading area with hair canvas and get to work.

Below is a the lining fabric I ordered from Sawyer Brook, think its kinda cool with the unusual cross pattern, which will tie to the crosses on the front.

And keep posting your wishes for giveaway: I've already learned something new: Anne LO wants a Simflex expanding sewing gauge which looks awesome btw, I want it too :))

And yes, Lindsay T, I will try my best to get together with you when I'm in NYC, how fun!!!

Christina, your Kai's went out today :))

Rainy Day Giveaway

What a weather! I actually stepped in a puddle, it's years and years since that happened to me...

As promised, here is another giveaway:

A brand new pair of Kai 7205, 8" Professional Shears.

I've had mine since November 2008 and adore them, so it's my duty to share the love :)) If you would like to be part of the drawing leave me a comment on this post. It looks like I'll have to go out of town next week so I'll do the Random Number Generator Sunday, January 24, that way I hopefully can get them shipped before I leave. There are no rules but it would be nice if you've left me a comment in the past or that you read my blog once in a while ;) International is of course welcome, and I'll pay for shipping.

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And now, on a different subject and yet another promise I made...

Balmain shell on the scale,

1 lbs 14 1/4 oz

It's heavy, and it's just the shell. And it's been hanging on my mannequin for what seems like ages.

It's what happens when you let a project linger: The drive, the inspiration diminishes with every tick-tock... and there's been a whole bunch of tick-tocks. Let's see, I got the inspiration back in May 2009, did my first post on July 3rd, and last post on October 8th. The shell and front beading was done, and my nemesis, the sleeve was discussed.

You, my dear readers, have continued to nudge me, and, believe it or not, I'm grateful for that. So...

The sleeve is done; I'm completing all loose ends of backstay etc, and have decided not to fret about perfection. If I'm going to finish this before MJ becomes someone one has to to look up on Wikipedia, I will have to take the bull by the horn.

The sleeve is full length, cut on bias, and looks pretty good. The shoulders are not as wide as I initially settled on, but still wide enough to give that "cut edge", which is very flattering on someone with next-to-nothing waist, I look like I actually have a nice one!

I will set in the sleeve, but only partly, leaving the underarm seam open to facilitate the beading. Another trip downtown must be had very shortly to complete the jacket. But I'm on it, it will be completed. And I thank you.

This Is Heavy

Think I can build some muscle wearing this :)) Should have weighed the front before attaching but will do before sleeves and the rest of the trim is done so you all can get a good laugh. :)) I'm almost done with the back stay, and then it will be on to the sleeves. Marji suggested to cut them on bias and I think that can work; they will look slender that way without compromising comfort. But some form of support has to be applied at the upper sleeve where all the trim will go and at the bottom sleeve as well. I'm also pondering if I should make the facings in canvas. That's what the original jacket is made from- something I found out too late. I'm using double wool crepe and live in Los Angeles :) Very clever, Birgitte!!

I'm also thinking about the sleeve length. If I do a cropped sleeve I'll be breaking the rules of proper design: jacket and sleeve hem should not be on the same line because it will make you look boxy. Me not like boxy! Also; being wool, isn't it nice to actually have a warm arm not just a warm body? What do you all think?

Thank you for all the nice comments. DD was SO enjoying them :))

Lindsay T; she couldn't believe her eyes when you mentioned Blair Waldorf!!! She thought that was soo cool!

Gry; Yes, I know exactly what you are referring to when it comes to Casual Scandia!! Thankfully, things are quite different here in Los Angeles, and DD dresses up a lot.

Cindy Ann; your "wild applause" made her burst out laughing!!

Rachel; the jacket is 04-2008-120, skirt is 01-2008-127, and blouse is 08-2009-103 with flounce from 117 from same issue. All Burda World Of Fashion Magazine.

Trena; you would be perfect in this- make it!! You and DD have very similar shape.

Uta; Yes, she wears these glasses when she's not putting in her contacts. Can't see a thing without them :))

Ms. Wintour's Assistant

My little girl isn't so little anymore. But she's still adorable, and thankfully, as sweet she always was.

A quick photo shoot before the sunset. She loves the whole shebang and so do I. It was also fun to make and not too much work. Not that I'm promising her another suit in the near future!

I'm back to the Balmain! Finished the front trim the day before yesterday and the shell was put together today. It's getting colder so I'm eager to get it done, can probably wear it to one of the functions at the theater, maybe even the opening but I'm not sure. It will look best with a pair of bleached jeans like they showed on the runway. Jeans and opening?? Like I said, not sure.

It's Time

For trim, that is. I cut the jacket after thread tracing all seams, cut and shaped the front interfacings, then basted it all together. The fit is good, so I took off the right front, made bound buttonholes and machine basted the trim lines. It looks real messy but that's just chalk marks which rubs off easily. I'll do the crosses first, then the crystals/pearls, and the center twisted pearls last.

I followed the directions in Classic Tailoring Techniques, by Cabrera/Meyers to make the front canvas and shoulder reinforcement.

Ferido Is Splendido

Okay the title is lame, I'm no jewelry maker so what do I know :))

After searching high and low for some oblong, curved shape with rhinestones in a pave setting, I decided it was time for some DIY. That's how I found Ferido Formula x1. It is super easy to use (no heat setting, just let it dry), and it can be shaped into nearly anything. And the really cool part is that you can embellish it with no additional glue. It comes in different colors, even silver, but I chose black after reading about it on a few blogs. It is very hard to make something look like real metal when it's not, and since the jacket is black it works out okay.

I have my eye on some long sterling silver beads that I might substitue for the navette crystals in the first picture, and I have shapes and sizes of Swarovski Hematite crystals to play with as well.

delaido wondered how heavy the finished jacket will be... :))

Pretty heavy. The one embellishment on the front (incl. fabric/canvas) is 3.5 oz.

Bunny asked if I could do all the beading in the flat.

I think I can do the front that way. I tested a bound buttonhole and it works fine, which means I don't need to attach the facing first. I don't think the shoulders and upper sleeves though. And not the collar unless I hand stitch it to the jacket afterwards, which I may do.

Els had a great idea to use some old nylons as cover for the shoulder pads- Thanks!

I updated my last post to include the info of the moldable felt.

Now, it's 1 day left for the Knockoff contest on PatternReview :))) Then I discovered there's a new one starting August 1: The Embellieshment Contest... Maybe I can make that one? I haven't cut the fabric yet... ;)

And about tickets to our shows Million Dollar Quartet and Baby It's You:

We no longer have house seats to give away for MDQ, which means; I have to place my own flat behind in that seat to be able to use it!)

BIY is a different matter because DH has complete control. BUT it's a very small theater and the run also benefits LA's BEST After School Program, giving a large percentage to that charity. That said, I will do my best to squeeze you in :)) My usual seat is now on the stairs in the aisle which doesn't bother me one bit- its' a hoot to have the house packet with people rockin' out! As an added bonus: You don't have to go on any celebrity sighting bus tours, plenty of 'em right here - and they're all very much ALIVE :))

How 'Bout Them Shoulders

"... Some pads have really stiff coverings, just the thing

to have when making shoulders that will clear off

shelves in the department stores as you walk by!..."

Kenneth King, "Cool Couture"

Mr. King, now see what you've done! :)

A few days ago DH and I went to a tailoring supply store in Culver City and there I found something quite amazing. I can't recall what it's called but maybe some of my readers will know. It's a "moldable" felt and looks like thick fused batting. When heat is applied, the fibers are transformed into something very stiff and is set permanently in whatever shape you created. How cool is that!

Edited on July 29: It's called Fosshape, here is a link (this is the same store that I bought from in Culver City)

Richard The Thread

After making a quick test on a small piece, I attached a mold, made by sewing together some regular batting and stuffing it with fiber fill, to the shoulder/arm.

Next, I used a tailored pad, trimmed at sides, and inserted it, basting it down the shoulder seam.

These are SOLID pads! I think they will hold up and I will cover them with something, maybe a thin layer of batting. I may have to trim the edges but that will have to wait until after the shell is put together. The things we learn... :))

Front Trim In Progress

One full test done, except buttonhole. If I make a regular buttonhole, the facing will have to be attached before adding the trim. Could be cumbersome (lots of manipulation needed, as I found out, only using a small swatch). Thoughts of handling a whole jacket while doing the beadwork frightens me! Especially the front because the lines have to be so straight (Monk speaking). Maybe I can do the front before attaching it to the sides? The shoulders and sleeves will have to be done after construction. OMG I can hardly wait- Ouch!!

I'm now thinking a bound buttonhole will be the easiest, bypassing the need for facing attachment.

The lines are basted for accurate placement. I will see how easily they can be removed, I used silk thread but should have increased the length. My machine only goes to 5mm; so wish it went to 7.

Below is a closer picture to show the different color pearls: The lightest and darkest gray are both 6mm Swarovski, the two medium gray I don't know, but it's very good quality.

Close look at the cross. I used the mixed bag posted last time. It works fine but I got a little carried away with the amount; the left side has too many and thereby "leaning" over the beaded outline. The sew on crystals are from Beads & More in downtown LA.

If any of my dear readers are heading my way (Los Angeles) during the month of August, let me know! Baby It's You is, if I may say so myself, pretty darn good :))

Wadding and Washers

Wouldn't you know, it feels like things are looking up. The cotton wadding arrived today, along with the second order of washers. The washers are from McMaster-Carr and do they ever ship fast! Thank you for the encouragement, I needed it, I was almost paralyzed there for a sec.

And Nancy, I didn't know about cotton wadding either, just wanted some after reading about the shoulder pad in Classic Tailoring Techniques :)) I got some on eBay and it looks and feels like something that can work for this jacket. Els was kind enough to offer some pictures of the inside of shoulder pads she has so, as always, it's all a process. (Els, I sent you an email so if you didn't receive it please let me know at bjorum at mac dot com)

The eBay seller also has a website; UpholsteryTradeSupplies.com. Below is a picture with some more info.

The washers will work great I think. The stainless steel ones are more grayish compared to the zinc plated, so mixing them up is probably a good thing. They are not heavy which is good because the pearls and stones add PLENTY of weight.

I cut another large swatch so I can test the scale and position of the cross in relation to the pearls and crystals. Gives me something to do while watching TV ;)

I updated the link to Baby It's You. It opens for previews tomorrow :))

So Bogged Down In Details

Cause and effect: The jacket is Cause, I am the Effect!

It was bound to happen with so much detail involved. But it seems I'm encountering an unusual amount of not enough, not the right color, not the right size, etc. etc... And it's not just the trim. As I'm trying to duplicate- or somewhat duplicate- the shoulder pad from the Chanel video, just trying to track down real cotton wadding (or felt) took FOREVER. I think I got the right stuff on eBay, but it's not here yet so can't be sure. I'm thinking cotton wadding will be best because it needs to be in place, structured, and not susceptible to the weight of the trim or fabric.

And the cross: Here are tiny washers DH found at the lumberyard. The not enough comes into play here, so I'm hoping I get the same thing when the online order arrives. I also used snaps in different sizes.

I have to stop obsessing so much!!! Just make the jacket already!

And Off To Town She Went

... and shlepped around for a good five hours. Uhhhh boy, there sure are a lot of junk to sort through to get to the good stuff. I even heard a shopkeeper say to a customer, "No, we only carry the cheap stuff, all c**p." :)) And he meant it.

So for quality trim, I found only two places:

Beads & More

800 S. Maple, Suite A

Los Angeles, CA90014

and

Berger Specialty Co

413 E. Eight St.

Los Angeles, CA 90014

I went into Michael Levine but they have a very limited selection and nothing that could work for me.

I couldn't find a single thing to replicate that rope-pearl-beaded thing so I'm now going to let that go and use other means to achieve a similar effect. Below is a sample I did last night with rhinestones I got. The light colored pearls are not the same quality as the darker ones- no luck with Swarovski pearls downtown so I'm ordering them online. There is a HUGE difference is shine and finish, like with most things; you get what you pay for. But the sew on Swarovski crystals are simply too expensive to be used alone on all that trim so I'm playing with combinations of other elements.

The rondelles are good quality but not Swarovski and therefor less expensive. I got those at Beads & More and the owner was very helpful. The sew on rounded rectangle is from Berger Specialty Co., and again I received first rate service. I bought 1 gross (144), and they ARE expensive so I'm trying to keep the amount down. However, if I used the above combination I will need at least 2 more... So I'm playing around.

I got other trimmings as well but that will have to wait.

Off to the theater- the tech is working great (you all know theater people are night owls right? rehearsal usually don't start until the afternoon and ends around midnight :))

Thank you Els for the link to the Chanel video, that looks like a perfect way to do the shoulder pad. Now if I can only find that kind of batting, it looks like something that can be molded/stretched into shape? Any suggestions? Wish I could see it done from start to finish...

Anne, you amaze me. Thank you.

Hugs to all who read or comment on this Balmain journey, I soooo appreciate it.

A Lot To Contemplate

Lots more information- thanks to Nancy K and and the lovely nearly afloat Marji- my mind spinning, racing, jumping. Oh my. There's a reason we call it blissful ignorance :)) I'm about to venture downtown in a few minutes to see if I can get some of the trim, so this is just a quick post to thank you- I received the Kenneth King book, Nancy, and I'll probably get the Schaeffer one too. Marji, I wish I knew the McQueen you're talking about so I could look for the trim, but I'll most likely have to make the trip again soon so keep looking for a picture :))

And JoanneM I have not taken any classes. I use the internet A LOT, and have a personality that likes to figure out how things work :)) High interest- or passion- is, I believe, the way to learn anything, and that includes doing it, doing it, doing it :))

Baby It's You is moving along; we pushed the preview to next week due to some cast changes. Never boring, I tell you :))

Baby It's You

Yes, very much so.

What was I thinking, planning the Balmain knockoff in the middle of tech rehearsal???....

The second staging of our musical Baby It's You begins previews on July 18 so our days are looong! Lots of fun of course, but tech rehearsals can be grueling. We have added a whole bunch of goodies (movies, slides, lights, wardrobe, sound, choreography, scenes, some cast replacements...) But, as I was watching it last night, I actually cried. That's what live theater can do to you ;) We have such talent on and off the stage that every piece of hard work is priceless. It lifts you up into a state of spiritual awareness, like you're riding on some magical cloud where possibilities are endless.

Somehow I did manage to make a test shoulder pad. We'll see if it works when the jacket fabric is cut but for now it looks good. I will use a sleeve head of course, and like Nancy K mentioned, some kind of interfacing on the sleeve cap.

The main points of the shoulder/sleeve for me are:

straight line (none-sloping) shoulder

extended shoulder

slender look of shoulder

slender sleeve

The increased height of the shoulder will have quite an impact on the sleeve cap and yet I have to be careful not to add too much ease or the sleeve will be too full.

QUESTION:

Nancy K mentioned that Kenneth King may be using mohair in the sleeve cap (she also made me get his latest book- thanks for enabling me, Nancy :)) While I'm waiting on my Amazon order I also bought some mohair on eBay. But I'm really confused... Please look at the picture and let me know if this is the kind of mohair I should be using. To me it looks like a velour or velvet, upholstery weight. My only previous connection to mohair is yarn, which always is fuzzy. This fabric seems way too substantial and overpowering for the wool crepe...

And for the stay in the back; I have no idea what I should use. Would hair canvas do the trick, and should it be on bias or straight? Any and all insight is appreciated.

Trim: The bulk pearls I ordered were not the right color/gloss :( I think my sample, which I bought at a local source, must be Swarovski crystal pearls due the the wonderful shine. I just may have to use my connections in the costume world to track down some of this trim... I don't like to take advantage of people so I'll have to come up with some kind of exchange. As long as that does NOT include sewing/mending for other people I'm willing and able :))

And Lindsay T; your idea is great if not doable :) I would have loved to be part of the NYC workshop and get hands-on help from experts. I hope you will share the experience with lots of pictures and info.

Balmain part 2: First construction thoughts

When I bought the book Classic Tailoring Techniques, by Cabrera/Meyers, some time ago I didn't have any particular project in mind. But I had been making a few jackets and was hungry for more information. Nancy K, you may remember I posted a question on the PatternReview boards about what book to buy, and your insightful answer gave me the push I needed. Thank you.

This jacket, as patsijean pointed out in her comment, will need lots of support due to all the heavy embellishments. When I found the fabric I was so relieved because it truly needs support inside and out. The double wool crepe is quite substantial and will hold up well. I picked a medium firm hair canvas as interfacing and believe it will get the job done. I may have to add an extra layer under each trim section, and will test first to be sure.

In the book there is no mention - I think- of any interfacing in the sleeve itself, which is normal, but this jacket is not normal :)) This is where couture enters the picture. In couture you have to think on your feet and constantly readjust as the project unfolds. Which is something I love to do :))

Hence; I'm not pushing for a July 31 deadline. I'm taking my time and will be enjoying it all the way.

I'm using BWOF (what else!) 02-2008-105 as a start off point. It's so well drafted I only did minimal changes (except for shoulder/sleeve of course.) I will do a separate post, maybe several, on the muslin.

Balmain part 1: Front trim placement

Before I begin, let me not forget to thank you for your support. This is a big undertaking, and I'm not expecting to finish this jacket by July 31. I will try to document the entire journey as much as possible, and, although your comments are always greatly appreciated, please do not feel you need to do so because I'll most likely be posting a whole lot :)) It will be helpful to me (as the rest of this post already has proven), and hopefully some of what I learn can be useful to others as well. Claudine and Nancy K asked for shoulder pad and sleeve construction photos and I will absolutely post on that. The muslin is not complete and the sleeve will be the last part of the construction, when the body and armhole/shoulder pad is set in stone.

The muslin bodice is at a point of a good fit, so I needed to see where the trim placement would be in relation to the length of the jacket and also the angle.

I started by measuring down 1/2" from the top edge. Each trim measures a total of 1 1/4" wide (hopefully this will work with the pearls and rhinestones). In the above picture it looks like the distance between the top trim and the second trim is less than the rest, so I went with a 1 1/4" distance there, and then 1 1/2" distance between the rest.

And here is the part about documenting being helpful :))

Studying the pictures side by side, I could see that the Balmain was slanting more, so I moved the slanting point down about 3/8". The result can be seen below.

I have tested 6mm glass pearls which work great and ordered them online in bulk :)) I have also ordered some sew-on rhinestones and rhinestone banding to test sizes. I looked up washers online and there are some small 2 and 3mm ones that might work. The one thing now seems to be the tiny pearl beaded rope. I found something at F & S Fabrics, but it wasn't the right color. I wonder maybe Int. Silks and Wools or Mood might have it. If all else fails I just have to schlep downtown... not exactly my fave thing to do. But I really want that rope! It adds a great dimension due to its raised surface.

Knock- Knock...

HELLO!

Okay then.

I saw a picture in LA Times on May 17. Actually, DH saw it first :)) He's very savvy that man. Soooo, I've been collecting pictures and info. Turns out there was a lot of hoopla surrounding this jacket and the celebs that wore it. It sold out on Net a Porter within 24 hours (three total at a charming $14.000 a pop).

Then MJ passed away. A lot of people likened the jacket to his trademark style, which I get. But, it's also a lot more feminine. I found a blog where the guy (yes, another savvy man) keenly observed how the shoulder pads are shaped to give the illusion of the shoulders of a very waif-like woman (in other words; runway-skinny, anorexic shoulders.) A far cry from the eighties and "Dynasty".

The muslin is taking shape, I'm using BWOF 02-2008-105 as a start-off point. The sleeve/shoulder in the Balmain collection is quite unique; here's another of his jackets on Rhianna:

I'm studying the trim as much as I can from the pictures.

Edited to add link to close-up of trim:

Crystals and pearls

Looks like pearls, rhinestones and some kind of gemstone like onyx. There's also a silver chain within the twisted pearls. And a bunch of something resembling washers! I'm not sure how close I will get to all this but I'm giving it my best shot.

If you have some suggestions for the trim, I'm all ears. I can't seem to locate the silver colored tiny pearl trim you can see next to the crystals, and also those crystal-encrusted curved thingies that lie over the black gemstones. Planning to go to the hardware store to look at washers, but they may just be too heavy.

I got some superb double crepe wool which I think will work perfect. It's heavy enough yet has a natural give, which is good due to the close-fitted design. I'm using a stretch charmeuse for lining.