Build-A-Blouse

This was a long time in the making, but it's been so busy with rehearsals and previews. I now only have one item left in my mini wardrobe and hopefully that will be faster (although I doubt that very much since I don't have a clear image in my head of the Big Bird skirt yet.)

As usual, I took these photos with a self timer, so you can't really see the beads sparkle as they do in real life- you know I adore sparkle right :)) Anyway, I'm happy with this blouse, and it goes great with black pants as well. 

The word Habili is Latin and means (according to one website): clothe, clothing, that which may be easily handled, suitable, fit, proper.

Blouse assembly:

Centered tucks:
Making folds on centered tucks:

Build-A-Blouse and Other Musings

There are presently too many ideas running amok in my mind, which have moved me to do something a little out of the ordinary (for me.)

Presenting the Build-A-Blouse:

It's like a puzzle and I'm having way too much fun. Visions of sugarplums and fairies, vintage grace and modern comfort. Individualism.

This whole couture thing has made me realize that I do love the itsy-bitsy details, and that hand sewing is my friend, not my nemesis.

Nancy asked a couple of questions in the last post regarding my skirt, and they were very good. Nancy, are you secretly reading my mind?!

"Is it comfortable?"

Yes. I made it a bit loose at the waist so I don't have to "suck it in", and can eat when I'm hungry :)) I can also sit quite comfortably without it riding up.

"Do you find that it fits your lifestyle and you have occasion to wear it?"

It does NOT fit my lifestyle :)) At least not my day-to-day living. I wear jeans and tees mostly. BUT... I do occasionally have to venture out "into the circles" so to speak, and on those occasions  I'm VERY picky. I want Barney's and Neiman's, not Macy's. I'm also thrifty (well, not at the fabric store...), so paying thousands for something I wear maybe a couple times a year is a hard pill to swallow. I've always been that way- in good times and bad- and it's highly unlikely that will ever change.

And... I like to be the only one with that exact outfit :)) Unless you go the highest price-point, we're talking waaay up there, that is nearly impossible to guarantee, especially here in Tinseltown. I'm pretty sure many of you have that in the back of your mind as well, maybe it's what drove us to sewing in the first place.

So coming full circle here; couture fits my sewing preference. It challenges me and keeps me extremely interested. I can buy jeans and tees for basically the price it would cost me to make them, and they fit me well (for now), so I feel I'd be wasting my time. I'll still make RTW when something has enough unique qualities about it to make it worth my time. And of course, for the children (well, one is fifteen so she won't be too thrilled with that label!) I will make anything they want- as long as I get to put my own spin on it :))

Its very liberating to know my motivations, and Pattern Review has played a big part in finding my way "home". Before, I never looked at my work, never wrote a single note, never took any pictures. Deepika has done so much more than simply asking us to review a pattern. She has created a database for us to store our individual sewing history, and I cannot thank her enough. Big hug, Deepika!

And big hugs to all of you too! Your comments and questions are so appreciated, as they are helpful, inspiring and encouraging.

PS. I just received an article about "Million Dollar Quartet" (still in previews at The Goodman in Chicago). Rock it out, Boys!

Chicago Sun-Times : "Million Dollar Quartet" rocks the house in stage musical

Gucci Inspired Skirt

First off: Thank you everyone for comments on this skirt construction- I'm so happy to hear that some of my excitement rubbed off :)) The skirt has been done for a while but taking pictures is truly a chore isn't it! I dread it and put it off until guilt starts eating at me. 

A huge Thank You is in order to both Lisa Laree and Mary Beth for giving me a blog award. It is so greatly appreciated and I'll do my best to deserve it.

Then a clarification: The picture in the previous post shows the inside of the skirt insertion. The reason it looks black is due to the seam allowance that has been pressed onto the insertion, the black fabric lays over the pink.

Okay, here comes the pictures! I'm in the process of dreaming up the blouse to go with this skirt (a slight change of plans from the original inspiration blouse) so disregard the all-black combo I'm wearing. Notice the one-pink lace :)) I'm in that kind of mood.

And can you say VOGUE!!!... LOL

Some more construction photos...

Okay, time to write the review. That too has been done a while back :)) I usually write while I'm sewing. Do any of you do that?

Gucci-Inspired Skirt Using Insertion Technique

Guess I'm into couture at the moment, mostly due to my mini-wardrobe plan, and, of course, the Chanel jacket. This skirt is actually not that complicated as long as I follow my own rules: Mark all seam lines, and baste with a surgeon's precision. And most of all; do not work while tired :-) 

Here's the link to the inspiration skirt

And here's a link to my mini-wardrobe.

As you can see I switched the colors around. It's now black with light pink inserts. My dd suggested this and I actually agree. I'm also planning to make the white "Big Bird" skirt so this gives the wardrobe a little more versatility in terms of light/dark.

I didn't get much done today since I spent hours at the theater choreographing moves for the girls playing the Shirelles. But what fun that was- they are superb with fantastic personalities.

Anyway, below are pictures of the process so far. I think I will underline the skirt with silk organza when the insertion is done and still add a lining to the waist facing like the pattern calls for.

Preparation...

Construction...

Where I'm at...

Thank you again, everyone, for all the fantastic comments you left me, both here and over on Pattern Review. I'm actually blown away by it. Speechless really. 

And I will keep my promise and make something simple. After the mini-wardrobe is complete:-)) And Lindsay asked if I'll get some wear out of the jacket, living in LA and all, and I sure hope so. There are usually plenty of days during the "winter" when temperatures drop to the point of "Okay, I'm freezing now!" In the 60's or so. I know, I know, but I had my share of cold when I resided next to Santa Claus, and I'll never do that again!!

Chanel Jacket is Done

... But I'm too tired to wear it cause I spent most of the day cleaning my room. The posing and review will have to wait, but I thought I'd give my loyal readers a look at it on the form. The jacket is quite heavy but wearing it feels wonderful. Knowing me (and I think I do...) this jacket will probably be casual-ized. I'll wear it open, except if I want to be 'preppy'... and I'll let you know if that ever happens!

A look at the woven pink in the fabric...

Here's a close up of the front. I chose to end the chain 2" away from the opening due to the extra weight of the buttons on the left, and also the right ruffle.

And thank you both, Melissa and Nancy, it was good to hear I'm not alone. I will try and make something simple- as soon as this wardrobe is done :-))

Back Home And Dreaming Chanel

Well, I'm back from Laguna Beach- sorta. My mind is still lingering in the peace and quiet of Three Arch Bay. Hopefully, one day...

Caused a bit of inflation yesterday. Spent a good two hours at F & S Fabrics. It was a lot of fun of course. They have the best stuff. And guess what! They'll be online soon! You heard it here first ;-)

I have a wardrobe plan, inspired by the Pattern Review contest. I'll never finish in time, so I'll just go my usual slow speed. It was the jacket contest that caught my attention first. I have been planning on making this Chanel jacket for a few months, and this gave me the kick in the butt I needed. Even got a copy of Threads with the couture article off ebay.

As you can see, all the patterns are from BWOF, hence my fantastically lame title.

In addition to the Chanel jacket, here are two links to other inspiration pieces:

BWOF 4-2008-114 blouse (Paola Frani blouse)

BWOF 7-2008-127 skirt (Gucci skirt)

The second skirt is all in my head, and I hope it wants to come out soon...

The boucle doesn't have any pink in it, so I'm weaving in some strands of ribbon yarn and mohair. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

I liked the Threads article, but was a tad disappointed that she didn't go more into details. Three-piece sleeve? I'd love to know how that's done. Where's the perfect location for that oh-so-important vent? And is interfacing not included in this exercise? How about buttonholes? Or loops?

I'd love your input on this. I tried reading the thread over on Pattern Review, but oh boy, that's a lot of reading!

Hope everyone's having a wonderful summer.

Some Razzmatazz and All That Jazz...

Well, I actually made it... 4 pieces in less than a month. That is one thing I won't try again I think. We are going to Chicago in the beginning of September to do our final workshop of "Million Dollar Quartet", so that's where I'm planning on wearing this :-) 

Here's a quick breakdown since I have to try and post the review before the deadline...

This skirt is from a dress pattern; Pictorial Art Deco ca. 1931, which I reviewed last year. It's crepe back silk satin and metallic lace in the inserts.

This blouse is Evadress 1444, in silk charmeuse, and the jabot is in silk organza with black and silver sequins. Love this one. And love the button.

The YSL Blouse knockoff worked out okay, not great. But it's wearable. The fabric should have been lighter I think. Or I should have another body...

Okay friends, I got to get over to Pattern Review if I'm gonna enter this contest...

Pants To Go-Go

BWOF January 2008, style 110. These are sooooo comfortable. And, imo, stylish to boot. And into/over the boot. And over the shoe. Open or closed. Get how much I like these? The cotton/lycra fabric is very stretchy- and attracts cat hair and everything else like a giant magnet. But who cares, I'll just carry one of those roller-thingies in my purse. I didn't have to make major adjustments (see photos below, in no particular order), but the thing here is the yoke. Gotta be precise, mark and stabilize seams and points. I beaded the front zippers to add the "sparkle" and also attached my label in silver thread on the back waistband. I'm hoping these will go well with the YSL blouse, which I have finished draping. The fabric arrived a few days ago, and is washed and ready to be cut .

And look how they work with my coat :-)

Hugs and thank you to those who voted for me, it is greatly appreciated. We are going through a 'growing pain' period- those with past and present teenagers may know what I'm talking about. Nuff said. Sewing -and you- keep me sane.

To Mini Wardrobe Or Not To Mini Wardrobe

That is the question.  Like Melissa, I started contemplating this the other night. I'm a terrible planner when it comes to sewing. I love using silk and anything that sparkles :-), yet my day-to-day life is basically jeans and tees. We're going to Chicago in the beginning of September to do a third (and final) workshop of our bio musical, so I have a good excuse to add some 'sparkle'... "my kind of town"... and all that jazz :)

My one and only time in Chicago was back in the early eighties. Don't remember much since I was already severely overworked and sleep deprived from months on the road with "Up With People". Yeah, and now that that's out the box- horrible I tell you- I'll get back to the more pleasant aspects. My DH lived in Chicago way back in the days, he was part of "Second City". I'm really looking forward to see the places he's talked about.

Sooo... looking at my clothes, the timeline and my stash, there's only one choice: Black. And then I'll add silver for sparkle :-)

I just fell in love with this blouse from YSL Rive Gauche. The black one. But look at how they hang on the form; the white has the closure in front whereas the black is in the back. What's up with that? The surprise of those cascading flowers down the back is so gorgeous IMO, what say you? I haven't draped it yet, just making the flowers at the moment.

I'm using silk organza and silver metallic thread (steil stitch), stabilized with tear away and solvy in the hoop, and I go between computer and machine to change the sizes. I think the blouse is chiffon and the bodice is underlined with organza. Suppose I'll wear a cami underneath, not much of a 'showing bra' kinda girl. Here's the link to yoox YSL BLOUSE

I'm thinking to do one more blouse and a skirt and pants. But I have to do it step-by-step. I'm too much of a control freak and have to see everything as I go along. I so envy those of you who can pull together such fantastic storyboards. And then make them!! On time!! Maybe one day... It was quite hard to vote in the Wardrobe Contest. Marji's guidelines were very helpful, and I ended up voting for the one I felt was most pulled together and suited the person best.

Finally, thank you all so much for stopping by and taking the time to leave such wonderful comments. You brighten my day and help motivate me. And you also make me better at documenting the process and to include my thoughts- a quite new experience since I'm on the quiet, shy side. (always was, unless I was on a stage :-) )