Some Juicy Details

Just a couple of shots so I can do a review. Thanks for all your lovely comments. This was a successful project and I'm grateful for that considering the PRICE of this fabric!

I'm now making a jacket (and probably a skirt) for me-myself-I, and will post shortly. Nothing complex though it has a few tricks (welt pockets and bias contrast bands). The first one to correctly name the BWOF pattern I'm using will get a nice surprise: Fabric for a jacket from F & S of her/his? (lol) choice within reason of course- they do have some stuff way past the 500/yd mark :) And Nancy, you're not eligible cause you already know :))

I'll go by the same rule as Cidell did in her recent giveaway: You must have commented on my blog at least once, and you must promise to make this jacket within the year 2009. I will pay for the shipping as well- even to Australia :))

Okay, if you bothered to read this far, forget about the coat pictures and go check your BWOF mags. :))

Here is a link to a photo of DD doing a marvelous pose in her messy room :))

Juicy Chanel Coat

DD was watching Disney Channel, apparently too important to miss, so better pictures outside at a later time, hopefully. But notice the pose in the first one :))

I was going to take detailed pictures on the form and then I see DD walking out the door to a friend's house- in the coat... Oh well. Below you can sort of see the buttons; vintage silver with rhinestones from International Wools & Silk.

I didn't take pictures during construction, but it was pretty close to my Chanel jacket- even has a silver chain at the hem. We're both happy with the end result, and it finally looks like the weather is cooling so she can get some wear out of it. I also think older DD will approve- she is after all the one responsible for younger DD's newfound preppiness :))

There Will Be Fringe...

... and buttons and sleeves...

This has been a long process with numerous interruptions. Really don't care though, because it's such a joy returning to this lovely fabric.

Changes so far:

No pocket flap, no in-seam pockets, and no collar. Instead I added patch pockets with fringe, silk piping, and silk bound buttonholes. Bias seams, hems and vent are fuse-stabilized. The two-piece sleeve is now a three-piece, split down the grain from top of shoulder, and a vent added.

Thumbelina and O'Malley have been very supportive throughout this process, always insisting on aiding in any way they can...

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I want to welcome Berry back to the world of sewing and blogging- I truly missed you!

Cidell, You are not too old for the dress- you would look fabulistic in an outfit like that!!!

I want to thank Cindy Lou for finding me and then top it off with an award! Since I already have received this award, I will link to that post here. 

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All you wonderful people are inspiring and enrich my life on a daily basis. I thank you. And so does DH. We would like to extend an open invitation to all of you faithful readers:

If you are visiting or live in Chicago, we will get you tickets to our musical Million Dollar Quartet free of charge. We are also planning to open our musical Baby It's You in a big theater here in Los Angeles in the spring, and when that happens, the same will apply. 

Thank you for reading my blog!

Coat on the Fringes

Youngest DD's current fave color is baby blue...

I had no idea how hard it would be to find a plaid boucle in baby blue. But I persevered. Tucked in the upstairs room at International Wools & Silk I found a stunning piece- at $69/yard! What's a mom to do? Well, this mom brought along dad, and ... problem solved. :))

I've been working on the muslin for a few days, and last night's fitting was acceptable. It's SO hard to adjust on this little cutiepie because, aside from the fact that she's six, she is soooo full of life. Her name actually means Life, so at least I got that one right!

I wanted the shape of this Juicy Couture coat...

... and I found this pattern: BWOF 5-2008-133. It's the only princess line pattern I've seen for little girls. I'm using the shell for the empire top, and the two-piece sleeve- great sleeve btw! The notched collar will be draped on the form.

And here's a sneak peak... I started with the fringe :)) It's a double layer of bias cut fabric with a very narrow silver sequined trim in the center.

I'm dying the silk charmeuse lining baby blue and will quilt it on, and use a silver chain at the hem. I have not selected the buttons yet.

And we have a name...

Rosanne of She's Sew Unusual. Congratulations! You can email me shipping info at bjorum AT mac dot com.

Wish I had more of this to go around as all of you are so deserving. Maybe now I won't over-think when I see some fabulous fabric, just grab it. Living five minutes away from F & S Fabrics has it rewards :)) It's good to know so many share my taste, because fabric shopping is the only kind I truly love, and you've all given me the perfect excuse- thank you! :))

HTH,

Birgitte

Cat And A Hat

Inspector Thumbelina

It's Monday October 27 and I'm as eager as anyone to find out who will receive a big package in the mail soon :)) I've written everyone's name on the same size/type paper. Those who know me will attest to the fact that I'm fair to the point of over-kill. Maybe that's why I don't gamble... As I write this I yet do not know  who's name will be pulled from the hat, and just want to thank all of you for visiting my blog. Like I pointed out last time, I do not have a huge amount of stash, but I think the idea of matching fabric/person is a good one so I will continue to do this when the opportunity presents itself.

And now I will ask my assistant to pull (that will be my husband, presently on the phone as usual)...

Stay tuned :))

Chanel Jacket is Done

... But I'm too tired to wear it cause I spent most of the day cleaning my room. The posing and review will have to wait, but I thought I'd give my loyal readers a look at it on the form. The jacket is quite heavy but wearing it feels wonderful. Knowing me (and I think I do...) this jacket will probably be casual-ized. I'll wear it open, except if I want to be 'preppy'... and I'll let you know if that ever happens!

A look at the woven pink in the fabric...

Here's a close up of the front. I chose to end the chain 2" away from the opening due to the extra weight of the buttons on the left, and also the right ruffle.

And thank you both, Melissa and Nancy, it was good to hear I'm not alone. I will try and make something simple- as soon as this wardrobe is done :-))

"Chanel" Jacket Construction

I’m in love.

I’m in love with Chanel

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle and silk

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle and silk and hand stitching

What an experience it is to handle this rag-a-muffin. Each step in this process has been pure pleasure so far, and not on the basic level. On the highest, stratospheric, out-of-this world level.

I so appreciate all of you who left me helpful tips on how to approach this unique jacket construction. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Documenting the process has improved my sewing tremendously (thank heavens for the iPhone!), and all of you play a huge part in that. I always think of what needs to be explained with pictures, and those pictures help me catch errors before it’s too late. Thank you for reading my blog and taking the time to leave a comment.

I made a muslin of BWOF 1-2008-127, eliminated the CB seam, and moved the back waist dart to the back princess seam. I also moved the upper backside toward CB, eliminating some gaposis at the back armhole. I raised the armhole about 3/8” and scooped out a bit in front, and added a bit of coverage to the back. The shoulder seam was moved forward just a tad.

After working with the boucle, I think all of this tweaking was a waste. It’s so drapey and forgiving, these changes will play a minimal (if any) role in the final fit.

Btw, if you're looking for a very fitted princess seamed jacket, BWOF 1-2008-127  is a great pattern. And the shawl collar is super flattering imo.

After taking apart the muslin and cutting off SA, I placed the muslin on right side of the fabric in a single layer. This is where matching the plaid (in my case; the satin ribbons) takes center stage. You will need lots of room around each piece as well, since a minimum of 2” SA is necessary. I thread-traced around each piece, and cut.

Since this is a shawl collar jacket, I needed to make front facings, which is not part of the Chanel construction in the Threads article. I cut four of the front pattern (like the BWOF pattern calls for), and put the facings aside to be quilted/attached later.

For lining, I dyed a piece of silk charmeuse in Light Pink (I know, here comes the dye again- but I didn’t have a choice, honestly! F & S didn’t have the right color.) I placed it on the table, right side facing down, and placed the cut boucle- one piece at the time- on top, right side facing up. I pinned down vertical lines, spaced 1 1/4” apart (due to the ribbon pattern), and 1” away from all seam lines and ending 2” above the hem fold line. I used silk thread- off white in needle, light pink in bobbin-, a walking foot and longer stitch length. I left thread tails at each beginning and stop, which I pulled to the inside and tied off.

Then I pinned the CB on the dressform and pinned the sidebacks, folding in SA, and matching each side square by square. After slip-basting in place on the form, I hand stitched all seams using small back stitches. The shoulder/collar seam point is the tricky part. I fused the point that needs to be cut, stitched the shoulder seams, cut the points and stitched the back neck/collar together. 

I needed three buttonholes, and after quite a bit of experimentation, I used medium fusible interfacing on both the front and welt, the stitched rectangle is 1” long by 1/2” wide. Next, I will make the buttonholes in the facing and quilt the facings on. Then the sleeve... and finally the trim. Very excited about the trim.