Chanel, the Speedy Way

This time I'm doing things a little faster and it's mainly because of the fabric I chose. It is so thin and lightweight and made up of mostly ribbon yarn, making it impossible to deal with without fusing it first- and I fused the entire piece before I cut. This one is for DD, who just turned 16 :)) She's not a die-hard preppy anymore, but she is so excited about this. The fabric is from Mood in Los Angeles. It's really a great store with so much to choose from, but I dislike that they never have a clue about the fiber content or where it came from.

Below is the pattern I'm using:

BWOF 04-2008-120

I obviously omitted the collar, and also the slanted front. It will have three quarter length sleeves and pockets.

I had decided not to use fringe this time around but I couldn't find the right trim. So, I bought some B & W hounds tooth, cut strips on the bias and added the only trim I could find that worked. I wanted it to be controlled (aka not my usual frilly fiesta :)) so it's pressed down and cut short-short.

The lining is quilted on as usual; Lindsay T, it isn't hard and doesn't take a lot of time AND since you got the magnifiers, threading the needle for hand stitching the lining seams in place will be a piece of cake ;)

This is my third Chanel style project and it is true that it gets easier with practice. I haven't needed too look up anything so far, it's all in the memory bank.

I'm tempted to make myself another one, but that will have to wait until the Balmain jacket is done.

DD also wants a ruffle blouse. I've been looking around for something like what Chanel is showing in their fall collection but no luck so far. If anyone has any ideas please share :))

Why I Need a Grainboard

This is to finish yesterday's post- as I posted it I knew it didn't cover the why's at all. My bad (hate that term, yet here I'm using it, go figure!)

I had to laugh at Berry's comment;

Grainboard??!! At first I got scared (I'm easily impressed), what is a grainboard? Thanks to your detailed info I feel way smarter this morning ;o)

I'm glad you feel smarter although you're already plenty smart as it is.

Lindsay ask the BIG WHY;

Birgitte, I have a cardboard fold-up cutting board that has grainlines on it. It's not as wonderful as what you made, of course, but wouldn't you get the same result from both? Can you enlighten me here? Thanks!

Thank you, Lindsay. It most certainly needs- no, deserves!, a better explanation than I provided.

Let me start of with this:

I've been sewing for longer than I care to remember- on and off, but still... And I never knew I needed a grainboard. I was doing just fine, a few hits and misses, but generally my garments were wearable.

Then, some time ago, and I know my loyal readers were part of that discovery, couture became my passion. Since then my viewpoint on all things sewing related has changed dramatically, and that, of course, includes all the tools.

Couture is detail. Every detail counts.

This is how I see the grainboard becoming my best friend :))

You can lie out the fabric and it will STAY THERE. No more slipping and sliding, distorting the grain.

You can pin the pattern VERTICALLY so you get accurate markings and cutting.

You can PRESS THE FABRIC RIGHT THERE and cut, no need to move it from one place to another. Perfect for fusing interfacing.

BIAS will be much easier to handle with accuracy.

There will most likely be other uses I discover along the way. If any of you have additional things to add to that list, please post it, or leave a comment, and I'll do an update.

Here is a photo with a quote from Roberta Carr:

That was the long explanation. The short one: You don't need a grainboard like you need scissors, needle and thread. You need it like you need that PERFECT BUTTON to go with your jacket :))

It's all in the details!

I Finally Did It! My Grainboard is DONE!

It's soooo cool, and I'm soooo happy! I've kept putting it off, yet every time I start cutting a new project I'm so angry at myself for not getting it done. DH got me the blankets yesterday so I was all out of excuses. Actually, my other excuse was that I needed my new gravity feed iron to be hooked up in the ceiling, and he got that done too. Well not him personally... he's not your typical DIY kinda guy. But ask him about restoring a vintage Porsche and you will get more info than you care to know :)) So my iron was set... until I tried filling up the tank. It's got a leak at the bottom where the plastic is spliced :( I emailed the dealer so hopefully I get a replacement. But it was back to my leaky, sputtering Rowenta.

For those of you who still don't own a copy of Roberta Carr's "Couture, the Art of Fine Sewing", I know Bunny is as devoted as I am :)), you might be wondering just what all the fuss is about regarding a grainboard. I can't speak for other couture books since this is the only one I have, but so far each and every thing I've used from her book is absolutely fantastic, so of course when she says a grainboard is needed, then it's NEEDED! It's a large padded surface to be used for graining-up and cutting fabric, and also as a large pressing surface.

I took some pictures of the process of putting it together, but it will in no way replace her book. You will most definitely need it to get the job done right.

First off, I got the cover from AllBrands

Grainboard cover

You will also need good quality muslin fabric, wool blankets, and a plywood 1/2" thick cut to measure 36" by 54".

And these tools:

If you'd like to take the grainboard journey, click below in order of appearance :))

I want to thank Angela of RiAnge Creations. Every time I use Carr's book I think of you, Angela. It was your post on her passing that made me go and buy the book. I'm forever grateful.

Some Juicy Details

Just a couple of shots so I can do a review. Thanks for all your lovely comments. This was a successful project and I'm grateful for that considering the PRICE of this fabric!

I'm now making a jacket (and probably a skirt) for me-myself-I, and will post shortly. Nothing complex though it has a few tricks (welt pockets and bias contrast bands). The first one to correctly name the BWOF pattern I'm using will get a nice surprise: Fabric for a jacket from F & S of her/his? (lol) choice within reason of course- they do have some stuff way past the 500/yd mark :) And Nancy, you're not eligible cause you already know :))

I'll go by the same rule as Cidell did in her recent giveaway: You must have commented on my blog at least once, and you must promise to make this jacket within the year 2009. I will pay for the shipping as well- even to Australia :))

Okay, if you bothered to read this far, forget about the coat pictures and go check your BWOF mags. :))

Here is a link to a photo of DD doing a marvelous pose in her messy room :))

Juicy Chanel Coat

DD was watching Disney Channel, apparently too important to miss, so better pictures outside at a later time, hopefully. But notice the pose in the first one :))

I was going to take detailed pictures on the form and then I see DD walking out the door to a friend's house- in the coat... Oh well. Below you can sort of see the buttons; vintage silver with rhinestones from International Wools & Silk.

I didn't take pictures during construction, but it was pretty close to my Chanel jacket- even has a silver chain at the hem. We're both happy with the end result, and it finally looks like the weather is cooling so she can get some wear out of it. I also think older DD will approve- she is after all the one responsible for younger DD's newfound preppiness :))

Working With Bias

I'm taking a break from my mini wardrobe to work with bias. All thanks to Nancy and her beautiful black skirt which so inspired me.

I have recently added two books to my library: Couture, the Art of Fine Sewing, by Roberta Carr, and Draping for Apparel Design, by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.

The latter has a chapter on draping bias which is very interesting, but Carr's book has detailed info on how to manage bias, from the very first touch and all the way to the finish line, so I'm mostly using her instructions. I'm not draping this time, instead opting to use this BWOF dress as a block (03-2008-115).

I made up a muslin to fit and then cut away SA. Armstrong's book suggests to leave all design detail off below the bust, so I left the waist darts stitched down in the muslin and pressed it flat in order to get the fit in the bias without darts. We'll see if this works... I'm just testing and learning at this point, and thankfully the black silk georgette was had at a bargain ($2.99 a yard at Trim Fabrics) so I won't feel too bad if it goes wrong :)) I will most likely add a bias-cut fitted sleeve, maybe 2/3 length- I just don't look good in sleeveless, and the puff sleeve is not suitable for this fabric.

I have also ordered a grainboard cover from All Brands and will make the board according to Carr's very clear instructions. I can see this becoming one of my most important tools in the future.

If you have a grainboard, please leave a link to a picture of it in the comment, I'm just dying to see everyones nifty tools at this point! As always, when something gets my attention it becomes an obsession :))

Ever wonder why some bias skirts just can't seem to hang even on both sides?... Thread count, friends, it's all about thread count :)) Click below to see how to lay out ALL bias cut fronts and backs. I'm gonna blow it up and hang it on the wall :))

And this made me smile. And no, I will not attempt this... at least not without my grainboard! Roberta Carr shows a wonderful sense of humor in this book and I'm truly sad she passed away. 

So, pictures friends, pretty please!

Build-A-Blouse and Other Musings

There are presently too many ideas running amok in my mind, which have moved me to do something a little out of the ordinary (for me.)

Presenting the Build-A-Blouse:

It's like a puzzle and I'm having way too much fun. Visions of sugarplums and fairies, vintage grace and modern comfort. Individualism.

This whole couture thing has made me realize that I do love the itsy-bitsy details, and that hand sewing is my friend, not my nemesis.

Nancy asked a couple of questions in the last post regarding my skirt, and they were very good. Nancy, are you secretly reading my mind?!

"Is it comfortable?"

Yes. I made it a bit loose at the waist so I don't have to "suck it in", and can eat when I'm hungry :)) I can also sit quite comfortably without it riding up.

"Do you find that it fits your lifestyle and you have occasion to wear it?"

It does NOT fit my lifestyle :)) At least not my day-to-day living. I wear jeans and tees mostly. BUT... I do occasionally have to venture out "into the circles" so to speak, and on those occasions  I'm VERY picky. I want Barney's and Neiman's, not Macy's. I'm also thrifty (well, not at the fabric store...), so paying thousands for something I wear maybe a couple times a year is a hard pill to swallow. I've always been that way- in good times and bad- and it's highly unlikely that will ever change.

And... I like to be the only one with that exact outfit :)) Unless you go the highest price-point, we're talking waaay up there, that is nearly impossible to guarantee, especially here in Tinseltown. I'm pretty sure many of you have that in the back of your mind as well, maybe it's what drove us to sewing in the first place.

So coming full circle here; couture fits my sewing preference. It challenges me and keeps me extremely interested. I can buy jeans and tees for basically the price it would cost me to make them, and they fit me well (for now), so I feel I'd be wasting my time. I'll still make RTW when something has enough unique qualities about it to make it worth my time. And of course, for the children (well, one is fifteen so she won't be too thrilled with that label!) I will make anything they want- as long as I get to put my own spin on it :))

Its very liberating to know my motivations, and Pattern Review has played a big part in finding my way "home". Before, I never looked at my work, never wrote a single note, never took any pictures. Deepika has done so much more than simply asking us to review a pattern. She has created a database for us to store our individual sewing history, and I cannot thank her enough. Big hug, Deepika!

And big hugs to all of you too! Your comments and questions are so appreciated, as they are helpful, inspiring and encouraging.

PS. I just received an article about "Million Dollar Quartet" (still in previews at The Goodman in Chicago). Rock it out, Boys!

Chicago Sun-Times : "Million Dollar Quartet" rocks the house in stage musical

Gucci Inspired Skirt

First off: Thank you everyone for comments on this skirt construction- I'm so happy to hear that some of my excitement rubbed off :)) The skirt has been done for a while but taking pictures is truly a chore isn't it! I dread it and put it off until guilt starts eating at me. 

A huge Thank You is in order to both Lisa Laree and Mary Beth for giving me a blog award. It is so greatly appreciated and I'll do my best to deserve it.

Then a clarification: The picture in the previous post shows the inside of the skirt insertion. The reason it looks black is due to the seam allowance that has been pressed onto the insertion, the black fabric lays over the pink.

Okay, here comes the pictures! I'm in the process of dreaming up the blouse to go with this skirt (a slight change of plans from the original inspiration blouse) so disregard the all-black combo I'm wearing. Notice the one-pink lace :)) I'm in that kind of mood.

And can you say VOGUE!!!... LOL

Some more construction photos...

Okay, time to write the review. That too has been done a while back :)) I usually write while I'm sewing. Do any of you do that?

Gucci-Inspired Skirt Using Insertion Technique

Guess I'm into couture at the moment, mostly due to my mini-wardrobe plan, and, of course, the Chanel jacket. This skirt is actually not that complicated as long as I follow my own rules: Mark all seam lines, and baste with a surgeon's precision. And most of all; do not work while tired :-) 

Here's the link to the inspiration skirt

And here's a link to my mini-wardrobe.

As you can see I switched the colors around. It's now black with light pink inserts. My dd suggested this and I actually agree. I'm also planning to make the white "Big Bird" skirt so this gives the wardrobe a little more versatility in terms of light/dark.

I didn't get much done today since I spent hours at the theater choreographing moves for the girls playing the Shirelles. But what fun that was- they are superb with fantastic personalities.

Anyway, below are pictures of the process so far. I think I will underline the skirt with silk organza when the insertion is done and still add a lining to the waist facing like the pattern calls for.

Preparation...

Construction...

Where I'm at...

Thank you again, everyone, for all the fantastic comments you left me, both here and over on Pattern Review. I'm actually blown away by it. Speechless really. 

And I will keep my promise and make something simple. After the mini-wardrobe is complete:-)) And Lindsay asked if I'll get some wear out of the jacket, living in LA and all, and I sure hope so. There are usually plenty of days during the "winter" when temperatures drop to the point of "Okay, I'm freezing now!" In the 60's or so. I know, I know, but I had my share of cold when I resided next to Santa Claus, and I'll never do that again!!

Chanel Jacket is Done

... But I'm too tired to wear it cause I spent most of the day cleaning my room. The posing and review will have to wait, but I thought I'd give my loyal readers a look at it on the form. The jacket is quite heavy but wearing it feels wonderful. Knowing me (and I think I do...) this jacket will probably be casual-ized. I'll wear it open, except if I want to be 'preppy'... and I'll let you know if that ever happens!

A look at the woven pink in the fabric...

Here's a close up of the front. I chose to end the chain 2" away from the opening due to the extra weight of the buttons on the left, and also the right ruffle.

And thank you both, Melissa and Nancy, it was good to hear I'm not alone. I will try and make something simple- as soon as this wardrobe is done :-))

Yes, I'm Still Sewing Chanel :-))

It's a busy time at this household. Oldest DD just left for a new boarding school and she's super excited, as she should be. Idyllwild Arts Academy offers everything an aspiring artist would crave, and I'm truly happy for her.

Youngest DD just started second grade, and she is as proud as can be :-)) She is also into performing arts and will attend her first acting class this Saturday.

As far as DH and myself; we're doing two workshops at the moment. Baby It's You, here at the Coast Theater in West Hollywood, and Million Dollar Quartet at the Goodman in Chicago. We'll be leaving for Chicago next week I believe, DH has a co-director on that production, and most of the cast has been with the show from the beginning so it's more important he spends the brunt of his time here in LA.

And as far as the jacket... I hope to take it to Chicago because it's quite warm. All that's left is the remainder of the fringe and the buttons, so it shouldn't be too hard. I added some Madeira Lana thread to the fringe on the organza because it was too black/white without it. Here are some sneak previews :-) I think, hope, pray- I will adore this jacket. 

Also, Thank you Sigrid, for providing the info on the Chanel YouTube video. It was fantastic watching it in its entirety. So inspiring. And wasn't it fascinating how they all buzz around that room, wearing lab coats! Makes me re-think my working wardrobe...

And the Chanel Journey Continues...

Getting closer but I'm taking mine time with this. The jacket fits well, and I'm now working on finishing the interior. I took a break and made the trim- just couldn't wait, too exciting! Below are some more construction pictures as well as the trim. The facing needed extra care; I had to stay stitch the shoulder/collar seam in addition to fusing the cut point. If you're making a Chanel jacket for the first time, skip anything with facings. And as little plaid/match-up as possible. Unless, of course, you're like me, and just can't be truly happy without some serious challenges :-))

First up, the facing buttonholes...

... the lining seam construction (they are all done this way) and sleeve vent...

... the fringe...

... and finally the organza (which will be the ruffled trim)...

I ended up using silk organza as interfacing for the front/collar. It turned out to be just the right 'hold' without adding stiffness. Thank you Marji for all your help, and Lindsay, if you do go ahead with that jacket, make sure to turn to Marji if you get stuck.

And if you love Chanel, be sure to check mem's comment in the previous post; a priceless story about the woman who makes the Chanel trim. Thank you, mem!

"Chanel" Jacket Construction

I’m in love.

I’m in love with Chanel

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle and silk

I’m in love with Chanel and boucle and silk and hand stitching

What an experience it is to handle this rag-a-muffin. Each step in this process has been pure pleasure so far, and not on the basic level. On the highest, stratospheric, out-of-this world level.

I so appreciate all of you who left me helpful tips on how to approach this unique jacket construction. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Documenting the process has improved my sewing tremendously (thank heavens for the iPhone!), and all of you play a huge part in that. I always think of what needs to be explained with pictures, and those pictures help me catch errors before it’s too late. Thank you for reading my blog and taking the time to leave a comment.

I made a muslin of BWOF 1-2008-127, eliminated the CB seam, and moved the back waist dart to the back princess seam. I also moved the upper backside toward CB, eliminating some gaposis at the back armhole. I raised the armhole about 3/8” and scooped out a bit in front, and added a bit of coverage to the back. The shoulder seam was moved forward just a tad.

After working with the boucle, I think all of this tweaking was a waste. It’s so drapey and forgiving, these changes will play a minimal (if any) role in the final fit.

Btw, if you're looking for a very fitted princess seamed jacket, BWOF 1-2008-127  is a great pattern. And the shawl collar is super flattering imo.

After taking apart the muslin and cutting off SA, I placed the muslin on right side of the fabric in a single layer. This is where matching the plaid (in my case; the satin ribbons) takes center stage. You will need lots of room around each piece as well, since a minimum of 2” SA is necessary. I thread-traced around each piece, and cut.

Since this is a shawl collar jacket, I needed to make front facings, which is not part of the Chanel construction in the Threads article. I cut four of the front pattern (like the BWOF pattern calls for), and put the facings aside to be quilted/attached later.

For lining, I dyed a piece of silk charmeuse in Light Pink (I know, here comes the dye again- but I didn’t have a choice, honestly! F & S didn’t have the right color.) I placed it on the table, right side facing down, and placed the cut boucle- one piece at the time- on top, right side facing up. I pinned down vertical lines, spaced 1 1/4” apart (due to the ribbon pattern), and 1” away from all seam lines and ending 2” above the hem fold line. I used silk thread- off white in needle, light pink in bobbin-, a walking foot and longer stitch length. I left thread tails at each beginning and stop, which I pulled to the inside and tied off.

Then I pinned the CB on the dressform and pinned the sidebacks, folding in SA, and matching each side square by square. After slip-basting in place on the form, I hand stitched all seams using small back stitches. The shoulder/collar seam point is the tricky part. I fused the point that needs to be cut, stitched the shoulder seams, cut the points and stitched the back neck/collar together. 

I needed three buttonholes, and after quite a bit of experimentation, I used medium fusible interfacing on both the front and welt, the stitched rectangle is 1” long by 1/2” wide. Next, I will make the buttonholes in the facing and quilt the facings on. Then the sleeve... and finally the trim. Very excited about the trim.

Back Home And Dreaming Chanel

Well, I'm back from Laguna Beach- sorta. My mind is still lingering in the peace and quiet of Three Arch Bay. Hopefully, one day...

Caused a bit of inflation yesterday. Spent a good two hours at F & S Fabrics. It was a lot of fun of course. They have the best stuff. And guess what! They'll be online soon! You heard it here first ;-)

I have a wardrobe plan, inspired by the Pattern Review contest. I'll never finish in time, so I'll just go my usual slow speed. It was the jacket contest that caught my attention first. I have been planning on making this Chanel jacket for a few months, and this gave me the kick in the butt I needed. Even got a copy of Threads with the couture article off ebay.

As you can see, all the patterns are from BWOF, hence my fantastically lame title.

In addition to the Chanel jacket, here are two links to other inspiration pieces:

BWOF 4-2008-114 blouse (Paola Frani blouse)

BWOF 7-2008-127 skirt (Gucci skirt)

The second skirt is all in my head, and I hope it wants to come out soon...

The boucle doesn't have any pink in it, so I'm weaving in some strands of ribbon yarn and mohair. A girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

I liked the Threads article, but was a tad disappointed that she didn't go more into details. Three-piece sleeve? I'd love to know how that's done. Where's the perfect location for that oh-so-important vent? And is interfacing not included in this exercise? How about buttonholes? Or loops?

I'd love your input on this. I tried reading the thread over on Pattern Review, but oh boy, that's a lot of reading!

Hope everyone's having a wonderful summer.