That Was Easy :))

Especially if you actually post something instead of hitting the return key... lol.

What I meant to say was: The Cuffs and neck froth were fast and easy to make. There.

Below are a few details of the construction.

I promise promise :)) I will get pictures of DD in all this Chanel extravaganza, but between her butterfly lifestyle and my Monk-like personality, getting a photo shoot set up is, to put it mildly, a tad difficult. :)) But it will be done. The reviews are written as well, so no more excuses!

:))

Neck Froth Lift-Off

DD is well again, thank you for all your kind thoughts. It was not the flue, just a cold. She's wearing her suit and blouse to Dress Up Friday at school today :)) Yes Nancy, she's back home and is going to a school in the Valley. I think she's very happy about that; last night she went to the dress form and hugged her new suit and then me. Nothing like a few years away to make you appreciate what you have :))

Neck froth:

I figured out, after some tinkering, that the edges of the pleats need to be ironed out to create the froth- gotta have that cappuccino look :)) The picture shows the top edges ironed and is just a test to see how much needs to be gathered and chopped off. The lace is also pleated (ready made from Mood) and the black strip is duchess satin left over from my Gucci skirt.

And the brooch. Isn't it gorgeous? I found it on RubyLane.com. If you haven't already checked out that site, do it. They have so many wonderful things, the majority of which is antique or vintage.

And thank you Marji; Fortuny pleats is the correct name for these pleats. Here are a few tidbits taken from Wikipedia:

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949), Spanish fashion designer, famous for the Delphos gown; a gown based on the ancient Grecian style. He is also remembered for his brightly colored pleated gowns.

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I appreciate all your comments on the last post; thank you.

Neck Froth

What do you call this? A scarf, a neck muffler...?

When I saw Chanel's delicious neck ornamentation, a frothy cappuccino was what popped in my mind. And of course, I had to have it. It will be for DD to wear with her almost-finished jacket :)) After visiting all the usual suspects without any luck, I bought some off white silk chiffon and took it down to Warren and Jan at A-1 Pleating. Btw, Warren worked as head of the costume department at the Pasadena Playhouse in the sixties! Needless to say he's pretty excited about our show going there. And he and Jan will be at the opening party :))

These are tiny pleats, I forgot to ask what they're called. As you can see the fabric is sandwiched between two layers of brown paper. I didn't want to take it out until I'm ready to go to work, just a tiny peek and it looks super.

And Vicky; I'm waiting.... :)) Maybe you want a cappuccino too :))

I'm also planning on making separate cuffs. A bit a urban chic; when she takes off the jacket she'll have a sleeveless silk top with cuffs :))

And thank you for all the thoughts on the sleeve.

Nancy K, I remove most of the ease, usually by slashing and overlapping. In this case, the sleeve has the added third seam from top of shoulder straight down the grain which is where the majority of the ease got eliminated. Then I drape it on to make it fit and also match the pattern in the fabric. The armhole was changed first, scooping out in front. This must be done when you try on the muslin; test by reaching the arm forward and draw a line where the arm and body meets, then adjust to make a pleasing, yet functional, seam.

Gry, that's it; three variables in the sleeve and only two measurements from the armhole, it's bound to be tricky!

But I think I solved it - at least for this jacket. The sleeves are done and ready to be attached by hand. I think DD will look very cute in this jacket, and they have dress-up Fridays every week at school so she'll have ample opportunity to wear it :))

A-1 Pleating Co.

I just returned from A-1 Pleating Co. in its new location. Warren's new shop- like his old, is located in the alley behind W. Third Street. And again, he occupies that "Harry Potter" space, this time 8318 1/4- just love those fraction numbers :)) We spent some time chatting and he's a wealth of information. I'm encouraging him to put up a website and he's promising to do so.

Here's his new address:

A-1 Pleating Co.

8318 1/4 W. Third Street

Los Angeles, Ca 90048

Warren's cell: 213 674-4555

Warren in front of the driveway entrance

The tiny space is still in a state of "we just moved", with everything stacked on tables and leaning against the walls.

The main entrance

Jan and Warren

It was so nice to see Warren and his assistant, Jan, again. Warren has been in business since the early sixties and may be the only one left who provides some of these services, like the custom belts and buttons. He has clients from New York, which tells me that this is indeed a dying specialty. He told me that when he first came out to Los Angeles, the downtown garment district was full of shops like his...  and now, not a single one is left :(

I promised to spread the word and I'm more than happy to do so. His work is so first rate that even the most finicky customer won't find a thing to complain about :))

I ordered my belt and buttons and they will be done next week. So while I wait...

It's a good time for a giveaway!

This time I'm giving away Warren's services :)) This is your chance to have that fabulous custom belt made to go with your suit/coat/dress/skirt/pants, or, custom buttons (I'm having mine made with the fabric and an insert), or pleats! Any pleat you need- go check your patterns, or look for inspiration on the web. But don't forget to leave me a comment first :))

There are two rules: 

1. You have to post a review of A-1 Pleating Co. on Pattern Review after you receive your item, and 

2. You must have left me a comment in the last 6 months.

All my overseas friends are of course included as always!

I will do the drawing at the end of the week. And I'd love to use the "random" tool some of you used in your drawings, please let me know where I find that one :)) 

Here are my reviews where I used his services:

BWOF 09-2007-122 Blouse-Jacket (Wish I had a better picture of the belt but DD has taken the entire suit to boarding school!)

BWOF 09-2007-123 Skirt

11-2007-108 Skirt

Unfinished Project Calling Me...

Can you guess what's inside?

Sunburst pleats! Oh yes, I've had them for some time now, but got sidetracked. First the Sabrina dress and then the mini wardrobe. Guess that's what happens when you are an eager participant over on Pattern Review...

To refresh your memory; these pleats will go here . I will have to add a piece of fabric to the smocked yoke cause I pulled it too tight. These are the jokes. My solution: Make a beaded zipper, positioned at left side, another bohemian twist  a la  Birgitte...

Also; we didn't have to leave for Chicago today, which is good. I don't like to travel that much, and it's such a long way for just a few days.

Lindsay T would like to know if I'm on stage:

No. I'm only on stage when I do the 'movement coordination'. This show does not require a choreographer, so my job is listed as 'movement coordinator'.  It's mainly the one girl, Elvis' girlfriend, who has to move flawlessly in stiletto heels across the wide stage. Not a small feat in this day and age when no one is being taught how to walk in these things. She and Elvis also have to dance- with romance- so that's what I do. Tough job but somebody gotta do it :-)

Connie B asked if I wrote/produced it:

No. DH is a co- everything on this show; co-producer, co-writer, co-director. He is also the originator of this show, as well as all the others we will be doing. And I'm his partner :-)

Marji asked a question which I myself took a long time figuring out; What is a workshop (in this context)?

A workshop in the legit theater world is when the book is written, the piece is rehearsed over a number of weeks (usually 4), often this is done in one of the many non-for-profit theaters around the country. During this rehearsal period, the book and music can be tweaked if necessary. While the rehearsing is going on, sets are built, lightning and sound contemplated, and finally all is put together. Then the show runs with audience for some weeks. Often these runs are extended, which happened to us both times. This will be our final workshop, and a move-over to a for-profit theater in Chicago is planned for November. A for-profit theater usually has an open-ended run, which means, as long as the tickets are selling well, the show stays.

MDQ (Million Dollar Quartet) is a fast paced, exciting show with people dancing in the aisles. When it's up and running you are all invited!

I guess this post is mostly about what happens "in between" the needle and thread part LOL! 

Dyed but not pleated

The dying is done and I'm off to see Warren. The color came out pretty close to what I wanted, certainly has the Bohemian feel to it. 

Here I'm painting the dye on. I put all three layers at once, which turned out to be a hassle due to the relative dense chiffon. I had to separate the layers afterward and fill in the gaps.

Here the smocking is painted. Painting instead of immersing gives that uneven look. I don't know how to express how much I love fiber reactive dye. It's pure magic every time. If you haven't tried it yet, do! Okay, I'm off to the pleater...

Smocking done

That was really time consuming, but a bit of fun as well. I put the panels together and will finish the yoke after it's dyed, just in case it shrinks more. Below shows the threads connected in each panel.

All six panels. There's discoloration, think the kitties had some fun with the red chalk :-) Oh those felines, just can't live without them.  The dye will hopefully take care of it.

Today I cut the skirt panels, and the cutting table was really useful here. Warren at A-1 pleating said to bring in half circles, so instead of cutting out the pattern, I marked it with contrasting thread- well, it will be contrasting after the fabric is dyed :-). I didn't have enough for three half circles; the pattern is more like 2 and 2/3. So on the front right half circle I marked the seam line and the center front. Crossing my fingers this will not be a problem...

I'm still thinking about the dye and the design. Probably less is more. I tested a Blue Gray and it looks quite lovely with the blouse. Maybe I'll add just a touch of the color that's in the blouse. Painting the dye on might give some interest as well.

And on a completely different subject: Is it normal to have problems on Blogger- like today, when images couldn't be downloaded for the longest time? Just curious...

Where to put the smocking...

The smocking will take awhile, already giving me plenty of time to ponder what to do with it. I work things really backward sometimes :-) The book had me excited about trying new techniques, so who cares where they go in the end. I'm now thinking it would make a perfect yoke for this skirt, which will give me an excuse to go down and visit Mr. Pleater Man, Warren, 

at A-1 Pleating. The skirt is from BWOF November '07, style 107 A.

And wouldn't you know, just as I was looking up the line drawing, DD sticks her head over my shoulder, "You know mom, that would be a beautiful skirt with this", walking over to my blouse on the dress form. She's six! Guess money well spent buying her a sewing machine.

I think the skirt will look good a bit longer, and extend the yoke  as well. But plans change so who knows. In the meantime this design- and those pleats!- have my heart all aflutter :-)