Dior Coat- it's been done since forevah!!

Better late than never. At least that what I've heard... Remember this coat? Maybe not, and I won't blame you. I had to go back and see when I last posted about it. That would be December 29. And it was done way before that. Ha. It's been worn, NYC was a perfect match. Got my boots there too and love love.

Open gets the most wear, but it was good to close it

on those chilly windy days.

Some close-up details: Double collar, single welt pocket, chest flap. And of course, the exquisite workmanship of Warren at A1 Pleating: belt and buttons.

Like the lining? Silk charmeuse in ombre, gray to purple.

Here's the link to the post about the pin tucks, which also shows the original Dior inspiration coat:

Using grainboard for pin tucks

Btw; I can't be the only one having trouble with the new blogger formatting? The photo thing is driving me nuts. And the preview is so bad! Hey Blogger/Google, get together with Mac, they know how to do it, just check out their iWeb :))

Thanks for all the encouragements on how to wear the Balmain; I'm inspired!!! I'm in the process of beading the collar, which means the lining is not far behind :)) Thanks sooo much, it's the push I needed.

Neck Froth

What do you call this? A scarf, a neck muffler...?

When I saw Chanel's delicious neck ornamentation, a frothy cappuccino was what popped in my mind. And of course, I had to have it. It will be for DD to wear with her almost-finished jacket :)) After visiting all the usual suspects without any luck, I bought some off white silk chiffon and took it down to Warren and Jan at A-1 Pleating. Btw, Warren worked as head of the costume department at the Pasadena Playhouse in the sixties! Needless to say he's pretty excited about our show going there. And he and Jan will be at the opening party :))

These are tiny pleats, I forgot to ask what they're called. As you can see the fabric is sandwiched between two layers of brown paper. I didn't want to take it out until I'm ready to go to work, just a tiny peek and it looks super.

And Vicky; I'm waiting.... :)) Maybe you want a cappuccino too :))

I'm also planning on making separate cuffs. A bit a urban chic; when she takes off the jacket she'll have a sleeveless silk top with cuffs :))

And thank you for all the thoughts on the sleeve.

Nancy K, I remove most of the ease, usually by slashing and overlapping. In this case, the sleeve has the added third seam from top of shoulder straight down the grain which is where the majority of the ease got eliminated. Then I drape it on to make it fit and also match the pattern in the fabric. The armhole was changed first, scooping out in front. This must be done when you try on the muslin; test by reaching the arm forward and draw a line where the arm and body meets, then adjust to make a pleasing, yet functional, seam.

Gry, that's it; three variables in the sleeve and only two measurements from the armhole, it's bound to be tricky!

But I think I solved it - at least for this jacket. The sleeves are done and ready to be attached by hand. I think DD will look very cute in this jacket, and they have dress-up Fridays every week at school so she'll have ample opportunity to wear it :))

A 1 Is A +

Ah what master he is, Warren. Here are some close-ups of the belt and buttons he and Jan made for me. Just amazing.

The buckle is a vintage Art Deco rhinestone I bought from Ruby Lane (just got lucky when I did a Google image search.) When I brought it down to A 1 Pleating, Warren's keen eye saw there was a missing rhinestone which I did not know- they're itsy bitsy ones. He found one and replaced it. That's how he is. Professional. They sure don't make'em like that anymore, do they...

The belt is backed with sueded leather. The buttons are backed with china silk- not exactly your standard Dritz version :)) I tell you; it's hard to show just how exquisite everything is by a simple photo. I will never try to make a belt or covered button again- unless I'm down at Warren's of course. I wouldn't mind learning how it's done. Bet he has some awesome tools :))

A-1 Pleating Co.

I just returned from A-1 Pleating Co. in its new location. Warren's new shop- like his old, is located in the alley behind W. Third Street. And again, he occupies that "Harry Potter" space, this time 8318 1/4- just love those fraction numbers :)) We spent some time chatting and he's a wealth of information. I'm encouraging him to put up a website and he's promising to do so.

Here's his new address:

A-1 Pleating Co.

8318 1/4 W. Third Street

Los Angeles, Ca 90048

Warren's cell: 213 674-4555

Warren in front of the driveway entrance

The tiny space is still in a state of "we just moved", with everything stacked on tables and leaning against the walls.

The main entrance

Jan and Warren

It was so nice to see Warren and his assistant, Jan, again. Warren has been in business since the early sixties and may be the only one left who provides some of these services, like the custom belts and buttons. He has clients from New York, which tells me that this is indeed a dying specialty. He told me that when he first came out to Los Angeles, the downtown garment district was full of shops like his...  and now, not a single one is left :(

I promised to spread the word and I'm more than happy to do so. His work is so first rate that even the most finicky customer won't find a thing to complain about :))

I ordered my belt and buttons and they will be done next week. So while I wait...

It's a good time for a giveaway!

This time I'm giving away Warren's services :)) This is your chance to have that fabulous custom belt made to go with your suit/coat/dress/skirt/pants, or, custom buttons (I'm having mine made with the fabric and an insert), or pleats! Any pleat you need- go check your patterns, or look for inspiration on the web. But don't forget to leave me a comment first :))

There are two rules: 

1. You have to post a review of A-1 Pleating Co. on Pattern Review after you receive your item, and 

2. You must have left me a comment in the last 6 months.

All my overseas friends are of course included as always!

I will do the drawing at the end of the week. And I'd love to use the "random" tool some of you used in your drawings, please let me know where I find that one :)) 

Here are my reviews where I used his services:

BWOF 09-2007-122 Blouse-Jacket (Wish I had a better picture of the belt but DD has taken the entire suit to boarding school!)

BWOF 09-2007-123 Skirt

11-2007-108 Skirt