Do I Have Time?

... For vintage, that is. The contest on Pattern Review has already begun and I'm still working on my coat. I truly dislike starting another project before having completed the current one but I might just make an exception. I found these two patterns on Vintage Fashion Library and they arrived today. The one on the left is copyrighted 1930, and the one on the right 1958. It's an exclusive design for McCall's by Pierre Cardin. Just adore that collar!

As you will see below, the front and collar is one piece. Such a nifty little detail, me like nifty little details :)) Also love the art deco dress of course, perfect for my rectangle.

Here's the coat at the moment; one sleeve basted on, the lining stitched and waiting to be attached. I'm going to have Warren down at A 1 Pleating make the belt; he did a superb job with the pleats and belt on my first BWOF project. I may have him make buttons as well.

If you're ever in need of these kind of services, he takes orders across the country. You simply mail him the fabric with instructions and he sends it back when it's done. The work usually takes about 1 week. Here's the current address, he will be moving a few blocks down in a couple of weeks:

A 1 Pleating Custom Belts & Buttons

8426 1/2 W 3rd Street

Los Angeles, CA 90048

(323) 653-5557

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Thank you all for Happy Birthday's last week. She had a fantastic time, watching our show with good friend Iris (DD to Bad Mom Good Mom, Grace). The actors brought her up on stage in the end which made for one truly Happy Birthday :))

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And another thank you for answering my question about the silk shantung fabric. Now I know that my previous thought about this fabric was wrong; that it's drapey and not crisp, like dupioni.

Gucci Inspired Skirt

First off: Thank you everyone for comments on this skirt construction- I'm so happy to hear that some of my excitement rubbed off :)) The skirt has been done for a while but taking pictures is truly a chore isn't it! I dread it and put it off until guilt starts eating at me. 

A huge Thank You is in order to both Lisa Laree and Mary Beth for giving me a blog award. It is so greatly appreciated and I'll do my best to deserve it.

Then a clarification: The picture in the previous post shows the inside of the skirt insertion. The reason it looks black is due to the seam allowance that has been pressed onto the insertion, the black fabric lays over the pink.

Okay, here comes the pictures! I'm in the process of dreaming up the blouse to go with this skirt (a slight change of plans from the original inspiration blouse) so disregard the all-black combo I'm wearing. Notice the one-pink lace :)) I'm in that kind of mood.

And can you say VOGUE!!!... LOL

Some more construction photos...

Okay, time to write the review. That too has been done a while back :)) I usually write while I'm sewing. Do any of you do that?

Can You Say Decadent. And Art Deco.

Let's just put them together cause they belong together: Decadent Art Deco! The lushness of working the duchess silk into clean crisp lines... oh the exhilaration of it all! Can you tell I'm happy :))

So duchess silk ain't just for bridal anymore... Picture this:

Fitted dress with or without sleeves, and insertion design of your choice on sleeves, waist, hip, neckline, back... possibilities endless.

How about a coat or jacket, how stunning would that be!! And remember; the insertion does not have to be a different color. Same color/different texture is sublime as well.

So, bottom line; you gotta try this. If it's a new technique, skip the corners and practice with straight lines first. Measure everything exact, and sew exactly as measured. 

There is no trick, no expertise, just measurements and careful basting.

I think I will try rounded or circular insertions next. But I have to keep in mind that Art Deco lines work with my body, not against it, so any rounded curves will have to be kept to a minimum. But for you LauraLo, I'd recommend heading straight for the rounded shapes which will look stunning on your hourglass figure ;-)

And even though I'm presently drooling over my silk, I can see this on other textures as well. But there is something absolutely fabulous about the shine and body of duchess silk that works so well with this technique.

Anyway, here's how I'm finishing the inside of the insertion:

After pressing the seam allowances onto the insertion, I catch-stitched the seam allowance in place. I will be adding  silk organza underlining next, which will cover and shield the raw seams.

And Mardel; I didn't do all of last post in one day!! Oh my goodness, no! I had already fitted the muslin and drawn  the design way back, before I even started the Chanel jacket. And the insertion was done over a few days. I'm really really slow :))

Working Some, Dreaming More

This is the working part: Burda 2-2008-120 Parka.

Here are the cut pieces, well some of them at least, had to order an additional yard. This is real metallic organza, which I suspect is not the case in the Burda photo. The real stuff is quite stiff and very sheer, so it will be interesting to see how it will turn out. Fun to work with though; you can actually bend the fabric due to the high metallic content- 80/20. It can never be washed, so if it ends up being wearable, I should put a giant sign, "DO NOT TOUCH" on the back :-)

And here's what I'm dreaming about. My current inspiration pieces:

Louis Vuitton blouse jacket. The details include 3/4 length sleeves with pin tucked hems, contoured and topstitched front princess seam, diagonal dart from neck, soft Peter Pan collar.

Jenny Packham black dress with metallic detail. It's the skirt portion I'm interested in, very Art Deco and I love it over the pants.

Dior dress. What can I say. It's everything I love. The drape, the Art Deco trim... I will make this an experiment to see how far I can go with my still very limited draping skills. The ad itself is a masterpiece, pure Art Deco from background to the Cleopatra-inspired hairdo...

What are you dreaming about?