Sunday, July 5, 2009

Balmain part 1: Front trim placement

Before I begin, let me not forget to thank you for your support. This is a big undertaking, and I'm not expecting to finish this jacket by July 31. I will try to document the entire journey as much as possible, and, although your comments are always greatly appreciated, please do not feel you need to do so because I'll most likely be posting a whole lot :)) It will be helpful to me (as the rest of this post already has proven), and hopefully some of what I learn can be useful to others as well. Claudine and Nancy K asked for shoulder pad and sleeve construction photos and I will absolutely post on that. The muslin is not complete and the sleeve will be the last part of the construction, when the body and armhole/shoulder pad is set in stone.

The muslin bodice is at a point of a good fit, so I needed to see where the trim placement would be in relation to the length of the jacket and also the angle.

I started by measuring down 1/2" from the top edge. Each trim measures a total of 1 1/4" wide (hopefully this will work with the pearls and rhinestones). In the above picture it looks like the distance between the top trim and the second trim is less than the rest, so I went with a 1 1/4" distance there, and then 1 1/2" distance between the rest.


And here is the part about documenting being helpful :))

Studying the pictures side by side, I could see that the Balmain was slanting more, so I moved the slanting point down about 3/8". The result can be seen below.



I have tested 6mm glass pearls which work great and ordered them online in bulk :)) I have also ordered some sew-on rhinestones and rhinestone banding to test sizes. I looked up washers online and there are some small 2 and 3mm ones that might work. The one thing now seems to be the tiny pearl beaded rope. I found something at F & S Fabrics, but it wasn't the right color. I wonder maybe Int. Silks and Wools or Mood might have it. If all else fails I just have to schlep downtown... not exactly my fave thing to do. But I really want that rope! It adds a great dimension due to its raised surface.



13 comments:

  1. WOW....you are making such great progress, it looks really wonderful.This jacket will be a masterpiece :)

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  2. I agree, Wow, you are moving right along. It will be an incredible jacket.

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  3. I am looking forward to watching this unfold. Great so far.

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  4. Your attention to detail is great. Can't wait to see the intricate hardware/trim unfold. Amazing so far!

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  5. wow! Moving right along! Watching the development of the trim has me hooked to your blog for sure. Would love to see all you have to publish on this project.

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  6. Are you drafting your own pattern or are you using a commercial pattern, and if so which one?
    The fit and shape look great. On the muslin the shoulder shape doesn't look as extreme as I thought that it would. I can't wait to see how you create the trim.

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  7. That's a fabulous jacket to make. Looking forward to see how you going to make it, I'll be following for sure. First steps are definitely in the right direction.

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  8. I am very excited to watch this progress. It looks good so far.
    I have had some success dyeing pearl trim. It was using fake pearls, but I think real pearls take dye as well.

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  9. WOW!!! I just can't wait to see the finished product? Are you using a commericial pattern?

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  10. This is going to be such an interesting project. What and undertaking on a breathtaking project. One note, however; do not forget that you will need serious interfacing to support the weight of the embellishment or the project will collapse under its own weight.

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  11. This is simply amazing. I thought there was some silk roping on that jacket. Boy I need to change my contact lenses. The brother of a good, good friend is a costume designer for the Cirque du Soleil and I sent him the address of your blog. He answered that he is silently in the watching miracle team. You are hot like a volcano says him and I. Go Birgitte, Go !

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  12. wow that looks really cool - was toying with the idea of making mine from scratch but have settled for buying a similar-looking one and trying to sew the exact same embellishments on it. Should be fun! Hope your going to post pics of the shoulder pads - have put up pics of mine but am always interested to see the different ways to do them.

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