It is always what I dread. The Sleeve. It IS the hardest thing to draft/construct well. And it IS what makes or breaks a garment. Looking at the sleeve chapter in Draping for Apparel Design, by Helen Joseph- Armstrong, I got dizzy staring at all the numbers, and then got that sinking feeling I had back in algebra class... How can I possibly wrap my head around all this, I just want a well fitted sleeve, jeez!!
I should mention that this is not the first time. In fact, the sleeve was what catapulted me into the arms of Fashion Incubator and its owner, the very smart Kathleen Fasanella (if you're reading this Kathleen; I miss you too). And this is the post I found:
When you study her drawing of how a sleeve cap will look if it is drafted to function with a real arm as opposed to a static dress form, it makes a lot of sense, at least it does to me. The scooping out of the front armhole and the added bulge in the sleeve cap is what makes us able to move our arms forward without all the pulling.
So that's where I'm at. Back to the draping board. I started with the original sleeve that came with the pattern and have now scooped the armhole front, added sleeve cap bulge etc. Since this is for DD, I will have to baste it in and test- at her highness convenience of course- and take it from there.
And thank you JoanneM of Miss Muslin for the link to the frilly blouses :)) As soon as I'm done with the jacket and skirt (yes it will be a full suit), a blouse will be next. I'm considering quilting the lining to the skirt- very curious how it will look and function. It's an above-the-knee, straight skirt with front side slit. Anyone tried this?
You have done an amazing job so far. I'm going off to buy my lining fabric today, having finally done my research on how to quilt the lining. Frankly it scares me.
ReplyDeleteI read Kathleen's post a while back, and while it is interesting, how do you know how much to scoop out and add to the back? Do you remove all the ease, and if so what method do you use to remove it? I am using a commercial pattern and have not a clue how to draft a sleeve on my own. Do you change the armscye too?
ReplyDeleteIf Kenneth King is ever teaching in your area, you HAVE to take a class from him. What you're talking about in this post is something he knows like the back of his hand and does a fabulous job of teaching and explaining. And thanks so much for your advice on my Etro coat! I think I will put it away for now as I mull over the options.
ReplyDeleteI can totally relate to the algebra class feeling. The sleeve muslin looks perfect to me! I've done a straight skirt the Chanel way but it was such a long time ago. I don't really remember if I followed this article but, Threads #44 that shows how to do it with the vent and everything. What a lucky little lady!
ReplyDeleteI read your post a few days ago and now back to re-read it! I have been mulling the whole sleeve process in my head esp. after reading Kathleen's post. I get the reasoning but figuring out how much to take out and add in has me confused!
ReplyDeleteThe sleeve issue is confusing for sure. Your sleeve looks good, but of course it is all in the wearing isn't it?
ReplyDeleteSleeves are so difficult! I have learned to draft sleeves by a system which gives a similar shape to that in Katleens picture, but I still have to work a lot on my sleeves to get a decent fit. The problem in the system I use is that you are going to draft a sleeve with the correct sleeve edge, cap height and sleeve width based on the cap height and armhole measure from the bodice. That is, you have three variables in the sleeve and only two measures from the bodice, so it is bound to give trouble.
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