Modern Madness Coat

Or something like that :)) I just returned from Chicago- waaay to cold!!!- and went right back to sewing. The coat only needed the buttons, but I also finished the white shirt I'm wearing.

I like but don't love. It's a bit too big and the colors are not me, but I'll wear it with white. The pattern is good so I'll use it again, with some tweaking, especially the sleeves. I need sleeves to look slender (probably cause I truly dislike my arms). Ottoman fabric is hard to work with, at least this one was, but that won't stop me if the right one comes along ;)

I've been reading what you're all up to, just not commenting cause although I love my iPhone, I don't like typing on it too much. It was a hectic time in Chicago, and it hasn't let up since returning to LA, but I'm squeezing in as much sewing as I can to stay reasonably sane... I also ordered some more goodies, so look for another giveaway soon :))

Must Be Dreaming...

... About spring :))

This coat dress happened because the fabric I ordered was not as chartreuse as I thought, more like a spring green. Which does not work for me. Chartreuse is a finicky color and I should have known better. Maybe I'll post a picture later with all the fabrics I now have labeled chartreuse, if I take the picture in natural light it will show how different they all are- ranging from spring green to mustard!

I've wanted to make this coat dress for DD ever since it first came out, BWOF 02-2008-117. She has the perfect figure for it; small upper body and waist, swayback and full hips. The fabric, from Fabric Mart, is silk shantung and the lining is silk chiffon and charmeuse; here's a link, they still have some left:

Cache silk at Fabric Mart

No shoulder pads so it can be worn both ways.

This is not a difficult pattern, but because I lined it- and I wanted her to be able to wear it both ways- I had to change a few things. Most importantly: I used casings instead of shirring elastic at the waist. Quite tricky, but the final result is good. Of course, I haven't tried it on her yet, so we shall see, it will go under the tree. I also didn't have fusible batting, so I used regular, which takes a little extra effort- the walking foot came in handy here. A lot of thread was used for this project :))

Speaking of thread... I left loose tails at each end of each topstitching, which then was woven into each seam... yes, that's a lot of work, but it looks much better this way.

The snaps were covered with fabric and carefully stitched on in the same formation; itsy bitsy details but for me worth the extra work.

The label is on the outside.

And about my coat: It's done just need to attach the buttons, and slipstitch the lining side seam closed. I'm not in love with it but it will work over white jeans. Next time I'll cut a 36, this coat is roomier than I thought it would be.

To all my readers:

Have a Merry Christmas, a Happy Holiday!!!

Thank you for visiting, I so appreciate it.

Hugs and love,

Birgitte

Lapel and Buttonholes

Two firsts for me:

A lapel roll

Triangular bound buttonholes.

And of course both techniques came from Roberta Carr :))

The lapel roll is constructed using cotton cording and hair canvas. I couldn't find the very thick cording so I used many thinner ones instead. Not perfect but it works. I held my powerful gravity iron upright and added plenty of steam and then let it cool off.

The triangular buttonholes were surprisingly easy. I used the same silk charmeuse I'm using for lining and they look pretty good and tie in with the angular design of both the fabric and the coat. And the fabric markers arrived and, although not completely fixing the problem, reduces it a bit.

Below is the facing buttonhole which I just did as a regular rectangle.

Thank you Digs for that fabulous explanation on ottoman fabric. Here's the page Ottoman fabric at TextileGlossery.com

I didn't know this resource existed so a double thank you for that.

And Nancy; so happy the sleeves on your fabulous jacket worked out!

The Other Coat

You may remember I was quite enthused about the coat in Burda's December issue, and I had just the right fabric waiting in the stash. This is a designer ottoman bought at Moods a few months ago, it came in panels and I bought two and got a partial one thrown in because it had been swatched. The colors are so not me, but the design is, so I decided what the heck... Think I can only wear this with white or I'll look awful :)) Or maybe I'll give it away...

Yes, that's a fire! I have a fireplace in my room :))

I'm using Roberta Carr's instruction on gathering the sleeve cap. She says to create your own notches by measuring down 2" from top of cap and draw a line out to each side. The new notches are always quite a bit up from where the pattern has them, but I've now done this many times and it works. The cap looks much better this way (when you follow the rest of her instructions of course.) The black in the below photo is a lightweight interfacing that I used on the entire coat.

Now; the problem.

I've never worked (or studied close up) ottoman fabric before so I don't know if this is standard, but in my case the back and the fill threads (which gives those lines) are white. The outside threads are very delicate and separate by the stitching, you can see in the below pictures.

The lapel...

The collar stand... This was the first (and only!) topstitching I did. I placed an order at DharmaTrading for fabric markers and hopefully that will solve the problem.

This is a GREAT PATTERN! BWOF 12-2009-126. So sleek, slightly fitted, a side panel so no side seams, perfectly placed pockets. Collar stand. I made a lapel roll and will use that to steam the lapels in place.

It is SO COLD here in Los Angeles!!! I've already put my cashmere coat to good use, and I'll be making a coat for youngest DD as well, in fuchsia lambswool from fabric.com. They have some great deals over there so check it out :))

The Coat (or, what's left of it)

I made so many mistakes, so in the end, what was supposed to be a regular black coat, is now a jacket/coat with lace inserts, and the nap runs the wrong way...

BWOF 11-2009-114

The fabric is a black cashmere I got on sale at Fabric Mart back in March, the lining is silk charmeuse.

I interfaced the entire coat with lightweight fusible and interfaced the hems with hair canvas. The pattern is very easy and quick (if you actually pay attention to naps and such...) and the coat is roomy enough to wear heavy stuff underneath.

A Coat with Lapels!

BWOF 12-2009-126

Just a quick post to show my excitement- BWOF finally has a coat pattern with lapels! I have about two years worth of issues, and this is first time they included this (at least in regular sizes.)

Lindsay T: About the Etro coat... yea, see, remember :) I wanna make one too, and this pattern is perfect!

My New Waist ;)

Hello friends, just a quick post while I'm coming up for air. So much sewing going on so no time for blogging. Guess that's what happens when you work on several projects at once. DD  has now acquired quite a few new skating outfits and more are on the way. I hope to post pictures and write reviews eventually.

And for myself; it's all about Empire, and how I love thee!! It works magic on my waist-less self, how can I ever thank you enough, Imogen! I have finished one dress and the second is almost done. Then there will be reviews and pictures... sigh. I just dread taking those pictures, but I will I will. Promise. In the meantime, here's a glance at the styles and fabrics:

The turquoise is a Giorgio Armani stretch, absolutely unbeliveable. The color/shine/texture defies description. The print is a European silk charmeuse, also exquisite.

And Anne was wondering if my gray coat had become a UFO and was sleeping with her denim DKNY jacket... LOL, you're so funny, just love your writing. Now go finish that book will you!! My coat is done and hanging in my room where I can look at it and feel guilty that I didn't take any pictures and posted a review. I actually really like it, although, after reading that we rectangles should avoid all waist details, I'll probably never close that gorgeous belt. But, it's hanging on the side so I can pretend I can close it if I want to ;-) Ah the games we play...

And I will post a review. 

But the trashcan got a precious gift the other day; my vintage jacket. It was not meant to be. Marji asked me a while back (sorry I forgot to answer, Marji!) if it was the fabric or the color I wasn't thrilled with.

See this post for more info

A bit of both I guess, but mostly the color. It was absolutely impossible to match as well, and it didn't look good with ANY OTHER color! It was also the wrong texture for the jacket; too crisp. I may try the suit again, but then I will alter the jacket and make it more shaped.

I did get a very nice email from NY Fashion Center Fabrics where they apologized for the long shipping time and gave me a discount on my next order. How did they know I was a bit, shall we say, unsatisfied? I didn't write or call them, so I'm very impressed. Which means I will be ordering from them again :)) 

Do I Have Time?

... For vintage, that is. The contest on Pattern Review has already begun and I'm still working on my coat. I truly dislike starting another project before having completed the current one but I might just make an exception. I found these two patterns on Vintage Fashion Library and they arrived today. The one on the left is copyrighted 1930, and the one on the right 1958. It's an exclusive design for McCall's by Pierre Cardin. Just adore that collar!

As you will see below, the front and collar is one piece. Such a nifty little detail, me like nifty little details :)) Also love the art deco dress of course, perfect for my rectangle.

Here's the coat at the moment; one sleeve basted on, the lining stitched and waiting to be attached. I'm going to have Warren down at A 1 Pleating make the belt; he did a superb job with the pleats and belt on my first BWOF project. I may have him make buttons as well.

If you're ever in need of these kind of services, he takes orders across the country. You simply mail him the fabric with instructions and he sends it back when it's done. The work usually takes about 1 week. Here's the current address, he will be moving a few blocks down in a couple of weeks:

A 1 Pleating Custom Belts & Buttons

8426 1/2 W 3rd Street

Los Angeles, CA 90048

(323) 653-5557

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Thank you all for Happy Birthday's last week. She had a fantastic time, watching our show with good friend Iris (DD to Bad Mom Good Mom, Grace). The actors brought her up on stage in the end which made for one truly Happy Birthday :))

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And another thank you for answering my question about the silk shantung fabric. Now I know that my previous thought about this fabric was wrong; that it's drapey and not crisp, like dupioni.

Using the Grainboard 4 Pintucks

Thank you to Lori, Sigrid, Ann, and Dana for nominating me for the Sisterhood Award, I will do a separate post on that. It's been really busy in my life lately...

Still very excited about my grainboard :)) I've been putting it to use the last couple of days. First to trace and cut patterns, then to cut a muslin, and finally for pintucks.

Here are a few more followups to questions about the grainboard:

Joanne asks : But where to store it? On top of the cutting table? On top of the cutting mat that sits on the cutting table? No accidental cuts on the grain muslin?

And Sew A Beginner asks: Can you use rotary cutters on the grainboard?

I've been storing the grainboard on the cutting table, but when I need to move it, it will easily lean up against the wall. I have a cutting mat to use with the rotary cutter- which I only use to cut quilt blocks and bias. I never use a rotary cutter for anything else. With scissors you have complete control, which is a must in couture. The scissors will not cut into the grainboard because the surface is pulled very tight, but you can not use a rotary cutter on the grainboard. I don't quilt much, and now I will use the grainboard for bias strips as well, so the rotary cutter and mat won't be of much use.

And thank you Katy for alerting me to the faulty Baby It's You link. The website is under construction and will hopefully be up and running soon.

Ann said: I have a spaceboard (51"x33")which I bought years ago. I love mine too and always use it. 

I also use mine to draft patterns on, and to trace patterns. If you use a tracing wheel to trace, it perforates the paper underneath nicely and you just follow this to cut out your pattern pieces.
Found a picture here:
http://www.yarn-store.com/blocking-supplies.html

Thank you Ann for the info on your spaceboard. I have a question for you: Is it a hard surface or can you pin into it? I usually trace patterns with a marker- I buy large rolls of the cheap tracing paper from the art supply store and just place it over the pattern.

Edit to update:

Ann answered; yes, you can pin into the spaceboard, and she included  a link to photos of how she uses it. I thought this to be so helpful, I asked if I could post the link here. She kindly agreed. Thanks Ann!

Spaceboard photos

So in conclusion; if you don't have the time/space/interest- fill in the rest:)- for a grainboard, a spaceboard is a great alternative.

Okay time for the pintucks part :))

Here's my inspiration coat. This is a bad picture, go to yoox where you can zoom in : Christian Dior Coat.

And this is the pattern I'm using, BWOF 1-2009-115

As it turns out I like the pattern so much I think I'm keeping most of the details and then add the pintuck section, pockets, belt/cuff straps and the button spacing. I might add pintucks on the yoke as well as inside on the upper facing and the under collar. The double collar is really cool- you can flip one up. I also like that it's very relaxed, not so fitted. I mostly wear my jackets and coats open. Here's the muslin.

Okay the pintucks. I need them to be really even and straight and the grainboard is FABULOUS for this. My new gravity feed iron doesn't hurt either :)) I'm using the walking foot and 3mm stitch length. The fabric is a silk shantung (at least that was what the label said), but it's really soft and drapey. I fuse-interfaced for the pintucks but think I'll use silk organza underlining for the coat.

What are you all sewing/dreaming about? It's time for another giveaway, I need some ideas :))

Some Juicy Details

Just a couple of shots so I can do a review. Thanks for all your lovely comments. This was a successful project and I'm grateful for that considering the PRICE of this fabric!

I'm now making a jacket (and probably a skirt) for me-myself-I, and will post shortly. Nothing complex though it has a few tricks (welt pockets and bias contrast bands). The first one to correctly name the BWOF pattern I'm using will get a nice surprise: Fabric for a jacket from F & S of her/his? (lol) choice within reason of course- they do have some stuff way past the 500/yd mark :) And Nancy, you're not eligible cause you already know :))

I'll go by the same rule as Cidell did in her recent giveaway: You must have commented on my blog at least once, and you must promise to make this jacket within the year 2009. I will pay for the shipping as well- even to Australia :))

Okay, if you bothered to read this far, forget about the coat pictures and go check your BWOF mags. :))

Here is a link to a photo of DD doing a marvelous pose in her messy room :))

Juicy Chanel Coat

DD was watching Disney Channel, apparently too important to miss, so better pictures outside at a later time, hopefully. But notice the pose in the first one :))

I was going to take detailed pictures on the form and then I see DD walking out the door to a friend's house- in the coat... Oh well. Below you can sort of see the buttons; vintage silver with rhinestones from International Wools & Silk.

I didn't take pictures during construction, but it was pretty close to my Chanel jacket- even has a silver chain at the hem. We're both happy with the end result, and it finally looks like the weather is cooling so she can get some wear out of it. I also think older DD will approve- she is after all the one responsible for younger DD's newfound preppiness :))

There Will Be Fringe...

... and buttons and sleeves...

This has been a long process with numerous interruptions. Really don't care though, because it's such a joy returning to this lovely fabric.

Changes so far:

No pocket flap, no in-seam pockets, and no collar. Instead I added patch pockets with fringe, silk piping, and silk bound buttonholes. Bias seams, hems and vent are fuse-stabilized. The two-piece sleeve is now a three-piece, split down the grain from top of shoulder, and a vent added.

Thumbelina and O'Malley have been very supportive throughout this process, always insisting on aiding in any way they can...

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I want to welcome Berry back to the world of sewing and blogging- I truly missed you!

Cidell, You are not too old for the dress- you would look fabulistic in an outfit like that!!!

I want to thank Cindy Lou for finding me and then top it off with an award! Since I already have received this award, I will link to that post here. 

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All you wonderful people are inspiring and enrich my life on a daily basis. I thank you. And so does DH. We would like to extend an open invitation to all of you faithful readers:

If you are visiting or live in Chicago, we will get you tickets to our musical Million Dollar Quartet free of charge. We are also planning to open our musical Baby It's You in a big theater here in Los Angeles in the spring, and when that happens, the same will apply. 

Thank you for reading my blog!

Christmas Morning

Thought I better post a photo of DD in her Bubblegum 4 Christmas dress or I'd forget. This one was taken on Christmas morning, yet she always manages to pose somehow, I mean, in the midst of presents and all... It fits her perfectly but the lace frayed... oh well. 

The coat is coming along and I've made several changes along the way. I'll post on that later. Cindy wanted to know how I make the fringe: Here is a link to my Chanel jacket fringe. The only difference is I cut a double layer of boucle this time because the fabric is lighter, and I also did not use any yarn to cross over.

I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday. We did, but... I'm absolutely, 100%, without a doubt, ready for things to get back to normal, whatever that may be :)) All I know is it includes school. Thank heavens for teachers!

Coat on the Fringes

Youngest DD's current fave color is baby blue...

I had no idea how hard it would be to find a plaid boucle in baby blue. But I persevered. Tucked in the upstairs room at International Wools & Silk I found a stunning piece- at $69/yard! What's a mom to do? Well, this mom brought along dad, and ... problem solved. :))

I've been working on the muslin for a few days, and last night's fitting was acceptable. It's SO hard to adjust on this little cutiepie because, aside from the fact that she's six, she is soooo full of life. Her name actually means Life, so at least I got that one right!

I wanted the shape of this Juicy Couture coat...

... and I found this pattern: BWOF 5-2008-133. It's the only princess line pattern I've seen for little girls. I'm using the shell for the empire top, and the two-piece sleeve- great sleeve btw! The notched collar will be draped on the form.

And here's a sneak peak... I started with the fringe :)) It's a double layer of bias cut fabric with a very narrow silver sequined trim in the center.

I'm dying the silk charmeuse lining baby blue and will quilt it on, and use a silver chain at the hem. I have not selected the buttons yet.

Me, Sewing Knit???

Funny what freezing temperatures can do to you... and I'm not talking runny noses and such pleasantries. I actually finished this KNIT coat in record time (for me, that is). 3-4 days is way faster than my usual turtle speed. It's in wool/cashmere from F & S Fabrics, $9.98/yard, lined with a soft rayon knit that I dyed. The color is not perfect but I don't care- it's warm! She bounced out the door this morning, happy as can be.

BWOF 2-2008-131

Here's a look inside the coat.

I draped a shawl collar and extended the center overlap by about 3/4", and cut a front facing.

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The Christmas dress was a great success but I haven't got her into a photo yet. It's so cold and she's in school all day. Maybe during the weekend. Thanks for all your nice comments, and to answer Lindsay's question: Oldest DD is going through a "preppy" phase- thanks to "Gossip Girls"... I think a nice tailored jacket would now be something she'd appreciate, and that can be fun. I'm also making a fitted "Chanel" style coat for youngest DD, just got a gorgeous wool plaid boucle yesterday. Like I said; funny what those freezing temperatures will do...