Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Dropped shoulder tunic

Another version of one my favorite tops, this time with dropped shoulders, pleated sleeves and contrast details:

Silk tunic BWOF 02-2009-110

This charmeuse print was bought at B&J Fabrics while in NYC, which is also where I bought the metallic tweed for the jacket. The contrast is cut from a vintage piece I had in my stash; black silk chiffon and silver metallic stripes. I made a modesty panel for the front, I think Catbird was the one who thought to do that on her recent gorgeous version of this tunic. Thank you, such an excellent idea! I also closed the bottom part of the top even more than my earlier versions.

Below are pages taken from one of my favorite books, 
Dress Design, Draping and Pattern making,
Marion S. Hillhouse & Evelyn A. Mansfield

FIRST PAGE                                                                            SECOND PAGE

My altered pattern

I made an earlier top using this same technique, the link below

The details on this tunic is not very easy to see in pictures but I really like it in person. Very understated. I'm planning a black and silver skirt (also from B&J).

It's so much fun adding details. Do you have any favorites to share?

Thursday, July 22, 2010

RTW Sleeve Lining

I'm sure there are better photos of this process somewhere on the web. The main trick is in the very beginning: The SA have to be folded in and pinned in place so you know where to line up the hem and lining. Once you pull that sleeve out it can get awfully confusing without it. This example is with a zipped vent but the rest is exactly the same. I also want to say that Kathleen Fasanella's book explains exactly how to draft/construct the lining, so if you don't already own a copy it is so worth the money just for that alone. It's the only way I do linings. (Except for Chanel style jackets.)




I'm glad to be back to blogging and thank you all for the nice comments on the jacket. I was in the process of writing the review when I realized that this sleeve construction is very hard to describe without pictures. Thank goodness for Blogland and Adobe Photoshop! I'll probably be back with a few more, but I've also signed up with Flickr. iWeb changed format so now I can't get direct links to jpg's- what a shame! Mac, I love thee but that was very NOT COOL! Many of my links on PR don't work, but I'll get to them- someday!

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Burda 07-2010-118 Peplum Jacket

This jacket has made many people's "must sew" list, including mine...

I bought this fabric in NYC, it's a metallic tweed. Hard to work with mainly because the pressing is so sensitive. I made a few (well, many) mistakes, but they're all avoidable if you keep your head on straight. The right pressing cloth, very little heat and of course, pressing from wrong side whenever possible is a must, which made this jacket not exactly the ideal choice. That peplum needs to be pressed so I cheated, some... :) I added 1" to the length of the jacket.

As you can see the lining is pretty bright! I dyed silk charmeuse light green. The peplum lining hangs free from side seam to side seam. I cut a facing for the peplum hem because this fabric refuses to be manipulated and shrunk. Also made a hidden pocket in the lining.

I also made a zipper pull out of pearls and crystals;

The jacket is part of an ensemble; the blouse I already reviewed on PR, and the skirt is done. Just have to get pictures of me wearing it all. And the Balmain as well... the review of that jacket is finally written.

Hope the summer is going well for everyone. Here in LA it's been heating up the last couple of days. Not that I notice that much, mostly in air conditioned room, sewing and dancing. I try not to sew when I dance, or dance when I sew...